Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno Aguglia di Goloritzé

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Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno - Aguglia di Goloritzé

Italy>Sardinia>Sardinia>Supramonte>Aguglia di Goloritzé

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Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno: Marco Morretti climbing the fantastic second pitch 6c+, Aguglia di Goloritzé, Sardinia

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Lorenzo Nadali, Mauro Zanichelli 1986

Planetmountain.com

Length

140m

Height

143m

Difficulty

Departure

Su Porteddu, Baunei

Arrival

Aguglia di Goloritzé

Link

https://www.pietradiluna.com

Route

The massive free-standing Aguglia towers high above Cala Goloritzè, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - a must!

Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno is a beautiful sport climb, technical, never easy and extremely exposed. A strong contender for one of the most beautiful multipitch sport climbs in Italy.

Getting there

Follow the SS125 from Cala Gonone to Baunei. At Baunei follow signs for San Pietro - Golgo. before reaching the small chruch turn off right along a dirt track following signs for Goloritzè-Piscinas. Drive to the end of this road and park at Su Porteddu, Campeggio-Bar. In spring, summer and autumn the car park and path require a toll (currently 6 euros).

Access

From here an obvious path leads first uphill then gently downhill in about an hour down to the beach and the Aguglia di Goloritzè. .

Itinerary

P1: 6c
P2: 7a
P3: 7a

Descent

Abseil down Sole Incantatore.

Gear

Bolt route. take 15 quickdraws and some slings.

Notes

Shade in the afternoon

Maps/Bibliography

Pietra di Luna trad & multipitches by Maurizio Oviglia. Fabula Editore, 2014.
Baunei (2021) Sport Climbing. By Maurizio Oviglia