Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno - Aguglia di Goloritzé

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Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno: Marco Morretti climbing the fantastic second pitch 7a, Aguglia di Goloritzé, Sardinia
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Lorenzo Nadali, Mauro Zanichelli 1986
By
Planetmountain.com
Length
140m
Height
143m
Difficulty
7a
Departure
Su Porteddu, Baunei
Arrival
Aguglia di Goloritzé


Route



The massive free-standing Aguglia towers high above Cala Goloritzè, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - a must!

Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno is a beautiful sport climb, technical, never easy and extremely exposed. A strong contender for one of the most beautiful multipitch sport climbs in Italy.

Getting there

Follow the SS125 from Cala Gonone to Baunei. At Baunei follow signs for San Pietro - Golgo. before reaching the small chruch turn off right along a dirt track following signs for Goloritzè-Piscinas. Drive to the end of this road and park at Su Porteddu, Campeggio-Bar. In spring, summer and autumn the car park and path require a toll (currently 7 euros).

Access

From here an obvious path leads first uphill then gently downhill in about an hour down to the beach and the Aguglia di Goloritzè.
GPS coordinates: 40°06'26.0"N 9°41'26.0"E

Itinerary

P1: 6c+
P2: 7a
P3: 7a

Descent

Abseil down Sole Incantatore.

Gear

Bolted route. Take 15 quickdraws and some slings.

Notes

Shade in the afternoon.

BOOKING OBLIGATORY
From 2020, the cove has a limited number of 250 people at the same time. It will be possible to book the trek starting from the third day before the day on which you choose to make the excursion, via the App Heart of Sardinia or the website www.heartofsardinia.com

Last update: 23/05/2025

Maps/Bibliography

Pietra di Luna trad & multipitches by Maurizio Oviglia. Fabula Editore, 2014. 
Baunei (2021) Sport Climbing. By Maurizio Oviglia





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28/05/2025 Nicholas Hobley

Ripetuta nel maggio 2025, a distanza di 25 anni. Rimane un palo bellissimo. Arrampicata tecnica su roccia perfetta. Attualmente alcuni spit lasciano desiderare, specialmente dopo la sosta del terzo tiro.

Repeated in May 2025, 25 years after having repeated it. It's still a magnificent testpiece, providing technical climbing on perfect rock. Currently some bolts are in poor condition, particularly on pitch 3, immediately after the belay.

Beauty
First ascent
Lorenzo Nadali, Mauro Zanichelli 1986
By
Planetmountain.com
Length
140m
Height
143m
Difficulty
7a
Departure
Su Porteddu, Baunei
Arrival
Aguglia di Goloritzé

Route



Position



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