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Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
Stefano Carnati sends Dreamtime at Cresciano
05/12/2019 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati sends Dreamtime at Cresciano
Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland. Established in 2000 by Fred Nicole, this was the first boulder problem in the world to be graded 8C.
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Simon Chatelan climbs new mixed route in Gastlosen massif, Switzerland
29/11/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Chatelan climbs new mixed route in Gastlosen massif, Switzerland
Swiss mountaineer Simon Chatelan reports about his new mixed route From Kirov with Love (200m, M9), established solo and then freed with Nicolas Jaquet.
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
21/11/2019 - Climbing
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
Eliza Kubarska provides the latest updates about the climbing on the elusive Mystery Wall situated in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman Island in Malaysia.
Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain
19/11/2019 - Climbing
Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain
Buster Martin has repeated First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain. In doing so he has become only the second Briton to climb a confirmed 9a+ after Steve McClure.
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans, Markus Dorfleitner, Christian Schlesener and Moritz Attenberger have established a new route up Grundtvigskirken (1977m) in Greenland. The entire German expedition was carried out by fair means.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt
14/11/2019 - Climbing
Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt
Andy Pollitt, a rock climbing icon of 80’s and 90’s, passed away on 13 November 2019 in a Melbourne hospital. He was 56. Dave Barnes pays tribute.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher establish Koasabluad up Wilder Kaiser
12/11/2019 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher establish Koasabluad up Wilder Kaiser
Alpinists Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher have completed Koasabluad, a difficult multi-pitch rock climb up Maukspitze in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria, where in 2014/2015 they established Südwind. Unterwurzacher reports.
Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain
09/11/2019 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain
At Oliana in Spain Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has onsighted an 8b+, Gorilas en la Niebla, and redpointed a 9a+, Joe Mama, conferming her status as one of the best climbers in the world.
Jakob Schubert claims third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ at Margalef
09/11/2019 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert claims third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ at Margalef
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the third ascent of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ sports climb at Margalef in Spain freed by Alexander Megos and repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi.
Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign
08/11/2019 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign
Polish / British alpinist Marek Raganowicz reports about his 13 day solo ascent of Born Under a Bad Sign, a difficult and dangerous aid climb up El Capitan in Yosemite first ascended in 1979 by Bill Price and Tim Washick.
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Michele Boscacci, ski mountaineering in a family of champions
Michele Boscacci, ski mountaineering in a family of champions
Growing up in the limelight isn't easy, and if you are the son of a world champion you know this well. But not all stories are the same. La Sportiva storyteller meets Michele Boscacci to understand how the relationship with his father led him to become one of the strongest...

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