132 News found
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
24/07/2020 - Interviews
Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci...
03/07/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Wogü in Rätikon, Switzerland Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Wogü, the 8c alpine sports climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed in 2008 by Adam Ondra in Rätikon, Switzerland.
21/05/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.
15/04/2020 - Alpinism
Nameless Tower Eternal Flame / Huber brothers first free ascent video The video of the first free ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary rock climb on Nameless Tower, in the Trango group, Karakorum. Established by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the first redpoint was carried out from 11 - 14 August 2009 by Thomas and Alexander Huber.
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi sends Bügeleisen sit 8C in Maltatal Stefan Scarperi from the South Tyrol, Italy, has repeated Bügeleisen sit, the 8C boulder problem in Maltatal, Austria, established in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.
29/01/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a 42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, Action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
05/12/2019 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati sends Dreamtime at Cresciano Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland. Established in 2000 by Fred Nicole, this was the first boulder problem in the world to be graded 8C.
18/11/2019 - Climbing
Rotpunkt featuring Alex Megos The film Rotpunkt featuring Alexander Megos; a portrait of the German climber and a look into the history of free climbing including the likes of Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich.
14/11/2019 - Climbing
Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt Andy Pollitt, a rock climbing icon of 80’s and 90’s, passed away on 13 November 2019 in a Melbourne hospital. He was 56. Dave Barnes pays tribute.
24/06/2019 - Climbing
Chiara Hanke in Frankenjura becomes first German woman to climb 9a 25-year-old Chiara Hanke has repeated Sever the wicked hand in the Frankenjura and, in doing so, has become the first German woman to climb 9a.
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