Home page Planetmountain.com
Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber climbing the 20th pitch of Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan, during the first free ascent. The legendary route up the S Buttress of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. The route was first ascended in 1989 by the Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora and originally graded VI, 7b+, A2.
Photo by Hinterbrandner / Huberbuam.de
Alexander Huber climbing the perfect hand-jam-crack of the fifth pitch (5.10c) of Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan
Photo by Hinterbrandner / Huberbuam.de
Thomas Huber and Alexander Huber showing the summit data: 6251m. Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan
Photo by Hinterbrandner / Huberbuam.de
The West Face of Nameless Tower, also referred to as Trango Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan. Eternal Flame runs up the right skyline of the tower, which is actually its south buttress. The first ascent of Trango Tower was carried out in 1976 by Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown and Malcolm Howells.
Photo by Hinterbrandner / Huberbuam.de

Nameless Tower Eternal Flame / Huber brothers first free ascent video

di

The video of the first free ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary rock climb on Nameless Tower, in the Trango group, Karakorum. Established by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the first redpoint was carried out from 11 - 14 August 2009 by Thomas and Alexander Huber.

In 2009 German alpinists Thomas and Alexander Huber claimed one of the biggest prizes in big wall climbing with the first free ascent of the monumental Eternal Flame on the south face of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. Established in 1989 by ace German climbers Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler e Milan Sykora, the 650m line pioneered new difficulties at over 6000m and soon became a coveted objective.

A few sections had been climbed with the use of aid and consequently some of the world’s finest alpinists attempted to free the route. Although some progress was made, inhospitable weather combined with the altitude and the technical difficulties proved prohibitive. Precisely 20 years after being established the Alexander and Thomas Huber discovered some slight variations that resulted in the historic first free ascent. Here’s how.


Eternal Flame

S. Buttress, Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan.
First ascent: Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora, 09/1989
Original grade: VI, 7b+, A2.
First free ascent: Thomas & Alexander Huber 11-14/08/2009
Grade of route: 7c+
Length: 650m
Number of pitches: 24 pitches
Altitude: 6251m

Nameless Tower
Nameless Tower, or more simply known as Trango Tower, was first ascended in 1976 by the British climbers Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells after an epic unsuccessful attempt the previous year. Mo Anthoine and Martin Boysen reached the summit on 8 July while Joe Brown and Malcolm Howells summited the next day in worsening weather. The British route was graded VI, 5.10 A2, 1100m with circa 80% climbed free - at the time it involved some of the hardest rock climbing ever achieved at altitude. The Tower received its second ascent 11 years later by a Yugoslav team led by Slavko Cankar.

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
21.10.2009
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
The history of Eternal Flame and an interview with Alexander Huber after the first free ascent of the route which climbs the Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum.
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers on Trango Towers
01.10.2009
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers on Trango Towers
Between 11 and 14 August 2009 the German brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber carried out the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary route up the S Buttress of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. The route had been established in 1989 by the Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora and originally graded VI, 7b+, A2.
Trango Tower, the Eternal Flame video trailer climbed by Lama, Ortner and Rich
03.10.2012
Trango Tower, the Eternal Flame video trailer climbed by Lama, Ortner and Rich
The video of the Trango Towers and the ascent carried out by David Lama, Peter Ortner and Corey Rich of the route Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower (6251m), Trango Towers, Karakorum.
Trango Tower, Eternal Flame for Lama, Ortner and Rich
31.07.2012
Trango Tower, Eternal Flame for Lama, Ortner and Rich
On 30 July at 16:00 David Lama, Peter Ortner and Corey Rich reached the summit of Trango Tower in the Karakorum via the route Eternal Flame.
05.11.1998
Eternal Flame repeated on the Trango Towers
The famous route Eternal Flame, established by the Germans Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert and Co up Nameless Tower (TTrango Towers - Karakorum) has been repeated by a Spanish expedition.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra