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Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
09/08/2017 - Alpinism
Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
27/07/2017 - Alpinism
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
In the Indian Kishtwar Himalaya the Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj and Urban Novak have climbed two new routes: All or nothing (6250 m) up the West Face of Arjuna (6250 m) and the North Ridge of P6013 (6038 m). Both climbs were carried out alpine style.
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out
24/07/2017 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out
A portrait and two videos of Catherine Destivelle, one the most talented climbers and alpinists of all times.
Ines Papert, Luca Lindič, Joseph Pfnür, Paul McSorley climb new trad in South Africa
13/07/2017 - Climbing
Ines Papert, Luca Lindič, Joseph Pfnür, Paul McSorley climb new trad in South Africa
In June Ines Papert, Joseph Pfnür, Luka Lindič and Paul McSorley made the fist ascent of Ruby Supernova, a new 520m high trad climb with difficulties up to ED1 7b+ (VI 5.12c) on Slanghoek Peak, Du Toits Kloof Mountains, South Africa
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
L’Olandese Volante, new rock climb in Val di Mello
04/07/2017 - Climbing
L’Olandese Volante, new rock climb in Val di Mello
Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have established ‘L’Olandese Volante’, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Precipizio degli Asteroidi in Val di Mello, Italy.
Marek Raganowicz / Baffin Island big wall interview
03/07/2017 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz / Baffin Island big wall interview
Interview with Polish climber Marek Raganowicz after his solo first ascents of MantraMandala (A3) and Secret of Silence (A4), two difficult big wall climb up the Ship's Prow on Scott Island, Baffin Island, Canada.
King of the Bongo, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini make swift repeat in Val di Mello
28/06/2017 - Climbing
King of the Bongo, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini make swift repeat in Val di Mello
On 22/05/2017 Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini repeated King of the Bongo, the route first climbed in 2014 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera.
Monte Limbara and the new trad climbing in Sardinia
23/06/2017 - Climbing
Monte Limbara and the new trad climbing in Sardinia
The latest trad climbs at Monte Limbara on the North of Sardinia, first ascended by Maurizio Oviglia and Filippo Manca. Oviglia provides the report.