2405 News found

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.

The video of the first ascent of El Flechazo on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, established by Belgian mountaineers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in February 2020 with two bivouacs.

Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.

South Tyrolean mountaineer Tamara Lunger announced a two days ago that she too will attempt to climb K2 in winter. The second highest mountain in the world is the last 8000er unclimbed during the harshest season.

In October 2020 mountain guides Umberto Bado and Giancarlo Maritano made the first ascent of Gran Couloir della Levannetta, a new mixed climb on the north face of Levannetta above Valle Orco, Italy.

On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.

British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.

On 28/11/2020 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Aurona, a new mixed climb up the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.

On 29/11/2020 Simon Gietl and Aaron Durogati made the first ascent of a new 500m route on the hitherto unclimbed north face of Mount Rauchkofel in the South Tyrol, Italy. After the ascent, the two climbers paraglided back down to valley. Durogati reports about this latest paralpinism adventure.

In The Ghosts Above, American alpinist and filmmaker Renan Ozturk joins an expedition to Everest following in the footsteps of Andrew Irvine and George Mallory, the British climbers who perished on the mountain on June 8, 1924.

A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent with Piero Onorati.

Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.

On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...

Mountain guide Marco Bozzetta reports about the new multi-pitch rock climb established up Pala di Socorda (Dirupi di Larsec, Rosengarten group, Dolomites) with Giovanni Andriano. The new route is dedicated to Andrea Concini who perished last winter on the north face of Cima Brenta, and with whom Bozzetta had started...

Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.

In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...