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Campanile di Val Montanaia historic bell rings again across Dolomites
11/11/2020 - Alpinism
Campanile di Val Montanaia historic bell rings again across Dolomites
After being damaged by lightning in 2019, the bronze bell on the summit of Campanile di Val Montanaia in the Friuli Dolomites has been replaced by the CAI of Pordenone after a crowdfunding campaign.
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber crown their Sonnenkönig on Untersberg
30/10/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber crown their Sonnenkönig on Untersberg
On the South Face of Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany, Thomas and Alexander Huber have made the first ascent of Sonnenkönig. Alexander Huber reports.
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
28/10/2020 - Alpinism
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
Climbing in alpine style, from 16 - 20 October 2020 French alpinists Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine made the first ascent of the virgin South Face of Sani Pakush, a 6951m peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Welfringer reports about their important ascent which may well be only the second successful...
Mount Tetnuldi, Georgia: Temur Kurdiani solos new route up West Face
24/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mount Tetnuldi, Georgia: Temur Kurdiani solos new route up West Face
Temur Kurdiani has made the solo first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Tetnuldi in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in Georgia.
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
23/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
22/10/2020 - Alpinism
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The climbers belonging to the GAG Val Gardena mountaineering club Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth have established Xylophon, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites, Italy.
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
20/10/2020 - Climbing
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
Spanish rock climber Edu Marin has made the first free ascent of Arco Iris, a 200m multi-pitch climb graded 8c+ at Montserrat in Spain, first ascended in 1979 as an aid climb by Armand Ballart and German Folch.
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
A video tribute to Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
25/09/2020 - Alpinism
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.