Home page Planetmountain.com
Cordillera Blanca, Perù
Photo by Tomas Franchini
Cordillera Blanca, Perù
Photo by Tomas Franchini
Nevado Ulta 5875m, Cordillera Blanca, Peru: Intento de los Payasos (Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Franchetti, Renato Rodriguez 15/09/2021)
Photo by Tomas Franchini
Cordillera Blanca, Perù
Photo by Tomas Franchini

Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru

by

The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.



The Cordillera Blanca… what can I say? This is already the third time I’ve decided to travel to these mountains. I have great respect for them and every time I climb here, I realise their complexity and the difficulties of climbing them, whether via a normal route or up a new route. Here things always require a huge effort, you have to deal with the weather, the conditions and the complicated approaches that compared to the past have changed a lot due to the radical climate change that has taken place.

After these two years of the borders being closed, my desire to travel increased dramatically. During this time I also had some health problems to deal with, so I really couldn't wait to get back into the big mountains. This is the perfect place to return into the wild and climb at altitude. Based in Huaraz, you have the opportunity to make "quick" raids into the mountains for a maximum of 5-6 days, and then return to base, allowing you enough time to recover and prepare for the next outing.

I left Italy on my own and planned to ​​join my climbing partners on the other side of the ocean. Alessandro Fracchetti, whom I sincerely thank for his help and support, is from Italy’s Trentino region just like me, but he fell in love with this place and his Argentine wife Lola, and moved to Huaraz a few years ago. He works here and has a beautiful family with his little Cassia who is just 1 year old. Alessandro introduced me to various climbers including Renato Rodriguez from Chile, who turned out to be an excellent climbing partner: highly motivated and really eager to become a mountaineer and climb virgin summits, just like me.

After some acclimatisation alone on some 5000ers, I joined my partners and we decided to attempt a new route on Nevado Ulta 5875m. From a distance, the wall seemed pretty straightforward, but once we started climbing it we immediately understood how complex it really was. Difficult conditions and route finding proved arduous, coupled with not ideal weather. Just short of the summit Alessandro started to feel unwell and didn’t want to continue, a block of ice hit his head and with thoughts turning to his family ... we went back down equally satisfied with our attempt and the great experience.

Then, with motivated Renato we wanted to take advantage of a good weather window. Once again it was Alessandro who came up with the idea, of establishing a route on the virgin spur of Huandoy Norte. Unfortunately, he decided to skip this one and wait for us at home.

In just 4 days we explored the approach, reaching the base of the mountain after negotiating a very complicated glacier. We decided against the rocky ridge because a: 1. loose rock b. progress would be “slow”, and we didn’t have enough time. In order to breach the overhangs we’d have to aid climb but we were climbing at the wrong time of year. As a result we decided to link a series of existing routes immediately to the right of the rocky spur, thus climbing a direct and elegant route in a fast, and extremely alpine style!

It seems to me that climbers here still have a very "slow and heavy" mentality when it comes to climbing the big mountains. Instead, I want to be as light as possible and climb the mountains with long non-stop round trips, resulting in light and fast trips. And safe ones, too. I don't care if we don't sleep and eat, we'll do all of that on the way back! The future of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca is alpine style My partners embraced this approach and will adopt this alpine style on their ascents, too!

Thanks again to Alessandro, Lola and Renato, the other local climbers Jilmer, Micher, Edwin, Miquel, my friend Victor and all the staff of the Caroline Lodge (hostel in Huaraz) where I am now at home.

I will stay here for about 15 days and then return to Europe in my favorite season, autumn. This trip is also teaching me a lot, and my love for the mountains seems insatiable.

Link: FB Tomas Franchiniwww.tomasfranchini.com

Tomas thanks his sponsors: Ferrino, Salomon, Level, Bliz Eyewear, Casimiro, La Casara Veg, Spireat, Rohener, MT sport and trading

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
19.06.2019
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
04.06.2019
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
01.02.2019

Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14.01.2019
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
31.12.2018
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
28.09.2018
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.
Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
18.09.2018
Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.
Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
10.04.2018
Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
The first part of Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini has now come to an end. The Italian alpinists have climbed 13 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes and the final three will be attempted when weather conditions improve in Peru in September.
Los Picos 6500, seven summits climbed in Andes by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
26.03.2018
Los Picos 6500, seven summits climbed in Andes by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
The Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini continues at a rapid pace and the trio has now climbed 7 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes.
Los Picos 6500, first summits climbed in the Andes by Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
16.03.2018
Los Picos 6500, first summits climbed in the Andes by Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
In the Andes the Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini have successfully climbed the first three mountains of the Los Picos 6500 project. The aim is to climb the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes in circa 60 days and shortly after their arrival they ascended Aconcagua, Tupungato and Mercedario. They will be accompanied by their friend and fellow mountaineer Michele Leonardi.
23.11.2017

Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29.03.2017
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru
16.11.2015
La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru
On 2 June 2015 Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini made the first ascent of La Divina Providencia, a new 650m mixed route with difficulties up to M7 on the West Face of Nevado Churup (5495m), Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Via Fratelli e Cortelli, new ice climb  in the Brenta Dolomites by Franchini brothers
26.04.2012
Via Fratelli e Cortelli, new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites by Franchini brothers
On 13/03/2012 Silvestro and Tomas Franchini established Via Fratelli e Cortelli, a new route up Cima Pietragrande in the Brenta Dolomites.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer