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Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
25/09/2020 - Alpinism
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
23/09/2020 - Alpinism
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
19/09/2020 - Alpinism
Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
The video of the new cross on Punta Dufour, at 4634 meters in altitude the highest mountain in the Monte Rosa massif.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
18/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
17/09/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the Dolomites
05/09/2020 - Environment
Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the Dolomites
The press release concerning a 'mountaineering' flash mob that took place on 03/40/2020 on the Cinque Torri (Cortina, Dolomites) in protest against new ski lifts and constructions in the Dolomites.
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
31/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
On 27/08/2020 Filip Babicz soloed the South Ridge of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in a blazing time of 1:30:14.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Łukasz Dudek makes solo ascent of Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
19/08/2020 - Alpinism
Łukasz Dudek makes solo ascent of Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Polish rock climber Łukasz Dudek has made a rope solo ascent of Pan Aroma, the 550m 8c multi-pitch rock climb on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
Symon Welfringer completes spicy month in Mont Blanc massif
18/08/2020 - Alpinism
Symon Welfringer completes spicy month in Mont Blanc massif
French mountaineer Symon Welfringer has had a productive July and August in the Mont Blanc massif which includes a single day, all-free ascent of Manitua on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.