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Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
15/11/2018 - Alpinism
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
22/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.
Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori
19/10/2018 - Climbing
Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori
The route topo of Mescalito up Rupe Secca on Monte Colodri in Arco, the multi-pitch rock climb first ascended in 1982 by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori and widely considered a masterpiece of the Sarca Valley. By Carlo Cosi, mountain guide.
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
18/10/2018 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
Italian climber Federica Mingolla reports about her first free ascent in Valle Orco, Italy, of an old project bolted in 2001 by Giovannino Massari and now graded 8a+. The route joins another nearby line freed by Mingolla a year ago: Occhi Nuovi 8a+.
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain guide...
Pale di San Martino Dolomites: Manolo and Narci Simion establish Bebe Forever up Tacca Bianca
16/10/2018 - Climbing
Pale di San Martino Dolomites: Manolo and Narci Simion establish Bebe Forever up Tacca Bianca
On 29 August 2018 Manolo (aka Maurizio Zanolla) and Narci Simion made the first free ascent of Bebe Forever (100m, max 7b/c max 6c), a new rock climb up Tacca Bianca (Val Canali, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The line is dedicated to Gabriele 'Bebe' Simion, son of Narci. The...
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/10/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Ján Smoleň have established two new rock climbs on Aiguille d’Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif: Crystal route up Contreforts Charlet-Straton and In memory of Červienka up Plateau du Jardin.
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
26/09/2018 - Trekking
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
Mountain running in Switzerland: Bettmeralp alongside the Aletsch Glacier, Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald and Monte Zucchero. Three magnificent trail running routes in the Swiss Alps taken from the guidebook 'Run the Alps Switzerland: 30 Must-Do Trails' produced by PatitucciPhoto and ALPSinsight.
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
20/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
20/09/2018 - Alpinism
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
Six quick tips for rock climbing at the Cinque Torri from the Cortina Mountain Guides, prior to the upcoming meeting Delicious Climbing Dolomiti scheduled to takes place on Sunday 23 September 2018. By Paolino Tassi
Corsica: summer rock climbing on the island’s best crags
19/09/2018 - Climbing
Corsica: summer rock climbing on the island’s best crags
Sport climbing in Corsica: the best summer crags to climb in the shade and avoid the sweltering heat. By Thierry Souchard and Maurizio Oviglia