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Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
06/08/2018 - Alpinism
Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Over a four-day period in August 2016 Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent, ground-up, of Stigmata, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites freed by the duo on 17/07/2017 with difficulties up to X-.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Reiner Kauschke at 80 reclimbs his Superdirectissima
01/08/2018 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Reiner Kauschke at 80 reclimbs his Superdirectissima
Accompanied by mountain guide Christoph Hainz, Reiner Kauschke has repeated Superdirectissima up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. Kauschke had made the first ascent of the ‘Saxon Route' with Peter Siegert and Gert Uhner in 1963 and now he repeated the line in 17 hours...
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
15/07/2018 - Alpinism
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
Climbing alone on Saturday 30 June 2018, Enrico Paganin made what is likely to be a first ascent up the SW Face of Antelao in the Dolomites. An 'exploratory' climb that ‘doesn’t concentrate on the grade' and which, via a hidden series of diagonal ledges, enters into the heart of...
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV
11/07/2018 - Alpinism
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV
32-year-old mountaineer Italian Maurizio Giordano from the Aosta Military Expedition perished while climbing Gasherbrum IV in Karakorum, Pakistan.
Ikaria Island, the unique climbing destination in Greece
06/07/2018 - Climbing
Ikaria Island, the unique climbing destination in Greece
Talented Greek climber Argyro Papathanasiou reports about the unique new climbing destination in Greece, the small island of Ikaria in the Aegean Sea.
Cjanevate 150 and Arrampicarnia 2018, the great climbing meeting in the Carnic Alps
03/07/2018 - Events
Cjanevate 150 and Arrampicarnia 2018, the great climbing meeting in the Carnic Alps
From 13 to 15 July 2018 Passo di Monte Croce Carnico in the Carnic Alps, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, will host the historic climbing meeting Arrampicarnia. The event will also celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of Crete delle Chianevate. Three days of rock climbing, encounters, courses, walks,...
Innominata Ridge Speed: Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli race up Mont Blanc
30/06/2018 - Alpinism
Innominata Ridge Speed: Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli race up Mont Blanc
Denis Trento reports about his fast ascent of the Innominata Ridge, carried out with Robert Antonioli in just 6 hours and 10 minutes. Although undoubtedly a fast ascent, the climb is interesting above all because, climbing as a roped team, they ascended with an increased safety margin
Denali Light Traveller, second ascent in Alaska by Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessy
29/06/2018 - Alpinism
Denali Light Traveller, second ascent in Alaska by Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessy
Sam Hennessy reports about the second ascent of Light Traveller, one of the most difficult climbs on Denali, Alaska, first ascended by Stephen Koch and Marko Prezelj in 2001 and repeated now, alpine style, together with Michael Gardner in a 36-hour push.
Adieu Stéphane Husson
25/06/2018 - Alpinism
Adieu Stéphane Husson
French mountain guide Stéphane Husson and a 16-year-old teenager lost their lives in a climbing accident.
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
19/06/2018 - Interviews
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.
New multi-pitch rock climb up Punta Cusidore in Sardinia
07/06/2018 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb up Punta Cusidore in Sardinia
Between autumn 2017 and spring 2018 Giovanni Manconi and Maurizio Oviglia established Passavamo sulla terra leggeri, a new rock climb on Punta Cusidore, a mountain considered by many as one of the most important 'alpine' peaks in Sardinia.
Grünhorn direttissima climbed by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss in Bernese Oberland
01/06/2018 - Alpinism
Grünhorn direttissima climbed by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss in Bernese Oberland
Mountaineering in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: on 12 May Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss made the first ascent of Exile on Main Street, a 600 m line up Gross Grünhorn (4044 m).
Laila Peak first integral ski descent by Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein
Laila Peak first integral ski descent by Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein
French skiers Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein have made the coveted first ski descent from the summit of Laila Peak (6096m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. A few days later Italy’s Cala Cimenti and Switzerland’s Matthias Koenig made the second descent of the stunning NW Face from the summit.
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini enchain Ortler, Lavaredo and Großglockner in less than 48 hours
30/05/2018 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini enchain Ortler, Lavaredo and Großglockner in less than 48 hours
In a mere 47 hours and 16 minutes the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed the north face of Ortler, Cima Piccola di Lavaredo and the North Face of Grossglockner in Austria. The alpinists traveled from one mountain to the other on foot and by bicycle.
Paul Bonhomme completes Aiguille Verte 4 Faces in a day
Paul Bonhomme completes Aiguille Verte 4 Faces in a day
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has completed his project of climbing and skiing 4 different faces on the Aiguille Verte (4122 m) in the Mont Blanc massif on the same day.
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition
25/05/2018 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition
On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the...