142 News found

On Saturday 30 January 2021 the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner from the South Tyrol, Italy, made the first ascent of a difficult mixed climb at Rein in Taufers called Dogma.

South Tyrolean climber Angelika Rainer has repeated Ironman, the total dry tooling route at Eptingen in Switzerland.

On 26 November 2019 Filip Babicz completed Ade Integrale, a testing dry tooling route in the Gran Borna cave close to La Thuile in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. The Pole suggests D15+. The route is completely natural but, being total dry, climbs no ice whatsoever.

Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.

In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.

At the drytooling crag Bus del Quai (Italy) Polish climber Filip Babicz has made the first ascent of Uragano Dorato, D15.

The news broke a short time ago that the search has officially been called off on Nanga Parbat for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard, the two mountaineers who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February.

Austrian alpinists Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber have made the first ascent of No Country for Old Men, a challenging mixed climb close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.

On 20 December 2018 Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski made the first free ascent of Parallel World, a dry tooling climb that crosses a 60-meter horizontal roof at crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D16, if the grade is confirmed, this checks in as one of the most difficult...

The film Generation Dry that explores the world of dry tooling, mixed climbing and winter mountaineering. Directed by Pierre Chauffour, with Gaetan Raymond, François Damilano, Jeff Mercier, Fred Degoulet, Tom Ballard and the late Stéphane Husson.

planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...

In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).

On 24 August 2018 Jeff Lowe, one of the world’s most influential mountaineers, passed away aged 67. The American climber was widely recognised as one for the strongest alpinists of his generation.

South Tyrolean climber Angelika Rainer reports about her first 8c sports climb, Cinque Uve at Narango (Arco), that comes in the wake of her D15 dry tooling ascent last winter.

Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by...

The video of Gordon McArthur climbing his route Storm Giant at Fernie, Canada. Freed last August, this is the first dry tooling climb in the world to receive the grade D16.