Jeff Lowe, goodbye to one of the world's most influential mountaineers
On 24 August 2018 Jeff Lowe, one of the world’s most influential mountaineers, passed away aged 67. The American climber was widely recognised as one for the strongest alpinists of his generation.
Jeff Lowe, the visionary American alpinist who inspired generations of climbers, passed away aged 67 on 24 August 2018. French journalist Claude Gardien described Lowe as follows for the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award: "Jeff Lowe has played a role in every aspect of the sport. He is one of the most important figures in the world of mountaineering and climbers all over the world were shocked to learn, a few years ago, that he had been diagnosed with a degenerative illness." Click here to read the portrait
After his groundbreaking solo first ascent up the North Face of the Eiger in 1991, Lowe’s life changed radically and was, in many ways, saved. His story is told in the award-winning film Metanoia which Lowe’s relatives have now decided to share with the entire climbing community.
Jeff Lowe (September 13, 1950 – August 24, 2018) notable ascents
1971 Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park, Utah, USA. First ascent with Mike Weis
1972 Grand Teton west face first winter ascent with brother Greg Lowe
1973 North Face, Wetterhorn Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado. FA with Paul Hogan
1973 Northeast Corner, Keeler Needle, Sierra Nevada, California USA; FA with John Weiland
1974 Bridal Veil Falls, Telluride, Colorado, FA with Mike Weis
1974 Green River Lake Dihedral, Squaretop, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA. FA with Greg Lowe
1975 Mount Kitchener Grand Central Couloir V 5.9 A2 with Mike Weis
1978 Latok I North Ridge epic 26-day attempt with Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy and George Lowe, considered most difficult unfinished climb in the world and holy grail of alpinism
1979 Ama Dablam, Nepal. Second ascent of the mountain via the south Ridge with American expedition (Martin Boysen, David Breashears, Lhapka Dorje, Tom Frost, George Lowe, Peter Pilafian and Jonathan Wright) followed by solo first ascent of new route up the South Face
1980 Skyang Kangri - attempt with Michael Kennedy
1982 Kwangde Ri North face, Nepal with David Breashears in winter
1983 Pumori french Pillar Nepal Himalaya, second ascent, solo in winter
1984 Squaretop East Face, Wind River Range, new route, with Renato Casarotto
1985 Bird Brain Boulevard, Ouray, Colorado new route with Charlie Fowler, Mark Wilford.
1986 Kangtega Northwest Peak, Nepal, new route alpine style with Tom Frost
1986 Nuptse SE buttress, attempt with Mark Twight to 6700m in 8 days of highly technical climbing
1989 Taweche / Taboche Northeast Face new route 10 days alpine-style in February with John Roskelley (VII WI6 A3 5.11)
1990 Trango (Nameless) Tower, Yugoslav route with Catherine Destivelle, second fee ascent
1991 Wind, Sand and Stars, Zion, first ascent wit Catherine Destivelle, ffa. with Lisa Gnade, Steve Petro 1992 (V 5.12c). Described as “One of the very finest long climbs in North America.”
1991 Metanoia, Eiger. First ascent, solo, winter, nine days, no bolts.
1992 Tete du Gramusat, Blind Faith WI6+ A2, new route with Thierry Renault
1993 Super Couloir Direct, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, solo, 2 hours
1994 Octopusy M8 Vail, Colorado, USA. Heralds the advent of modern dry tooling.