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Jeff Lowe making the second ascent of Ama Dablam, Nepal, via the south ridge in 1979. Shortly afterwards he soloed a new route up Ama Dablam's south face
Photo by Tom Frost
Jeff Lowe descending from Latok in 1978
Photo by King of Kanzi
American alpinist Jeff Lowe to receive the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award
Photo by Wick Beavers

Jeff Lowe, goodbye to one of the world's most influential mountaineers


On 24 August 2018 Jeff Lowe, one of the world’s most influential mountaineers, passed away aged 67. The American climber was widely recognised as one for the strongest alpinists of his generation.

Jeff Lowe, the visionary American alpinist who inspired generations of climbers, passed away aged 67 on 24 August 2018. French journalist Claude Gardien described Lowe as follows for the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award: "Jeff Lowe has played a role in every aspect of the sport. He is one of the most important figures in the world of mountaineering and climbers all over the world were shocked to learn, a few years ago, that he had been diagnosed with a degenerative illness." Click here to read the portrait

After his groundbreaking solo first ascent up the North Face of the Eiger in 1991, Lowe’s life changed radically and was, in many ways, saved. His story is told in the award-winning film Metanoia which Lowe’s relatives have now decided to share with the entire climbing community.

Link: www.jeffloweclimber.com


Jeff Lowe (September 13, 1950 – August 24, 2018) notable ascents

1971 Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park, Utah, USA. First ascent with Mike Weis
1972 Grand Teton west face first winter ascent with brother Greg Lowe
1973 North Face, Wetterhorn Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado. FA with Paul Hogan
1973 Northeast Corner, Keeler Needle, Sierra Nevada, California USA; FA with John Weiland
1974 Bridal Veil Falls, Telluride, Colorado, FA with Mike Weis
1974 Green River Lake Dihedral, Squaretop, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA. FA with Greg Lowe
1975 Mount Kitchener Grand Central Couloir V 5.9 A2 with Mike Weis
1978 Latok I North Ridge epic 26-day attempt with Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy and George Lowe, considered most difficult unfinished climb in the world and holy grail of alpinism
1979 Ama Dablam, Nepal. Second ascent of the mountain via the south Ridge with American expedition (Martin Boysen, David Breashears, Lhapka Dorje, Tom Frost, George Lowe, Peter Pilafian and Jonathan Wright) followed by solo first ascent of new route up the South Face
1980 Skyang Kangri - attempt with Michael Kennedy
1982 Kwangde Ri North face, Nepal with David Breashears in winter
1983 Pumori french Pillar Nepal Himalaya, second ascent, solo in winter
1984 Squaretop East Face, Wind River Range, new route, with Renato Casarotto
1985 Bird Brain Boulevard, Ouray, Colorado new route with Charlie Fowler, Mark Wilford.
1986 Kangtega Northwest Peak, Nepal, new route alpine style with Tom Frost
1986 Nuptse SE buttress, attempt with Mark Twight to 6700m in 8 days of highly technical climbing
1989 Taweche / Taboche Northeast Face new route 10 days alpine-style in February with John Roskelley (VII WI6 A3 5.11)
1990 Trango (Nameless) Tower, Yugoslav route with Catherine Destivelle, second fee ascent
1991 Wind, Sand and Stars, Zion, first ascent wit Catherine Destivelle, ffa. with Lisa Gnade, Steve Petro 1992 (V 5.12c). Described as “One of the very finest long climbs in North America.”
1991 Metanoia, Eiger. First ascent, solo, winter, nine days, no bolts.
1992 Tete du Gramusat, Blind Faith WI6+ A2, new route with Thierry Renault
1993 Super Couloir Direct, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, solo, 2 hours
1994 Octopusy M8 Vail, Colorado, USA. Heralds the advent of modern dry tooling.


NEWS / Related news:
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.




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