Filip Babicz frees Uragano Dorato, D15 dry tooling at Italy's Bus del Quai
At the drytooling crag Bus del Quai (Italy) Polish climber Filip Babicz has made the first ascent of Uragano Dorato, D15.
Filip Babicz has fought his way through the ultra-steep Bus del Quai total dry crag above Lake Iseo in northern Italy to create one of the hardest routes in the country.
The climb is the longest, most direct line through the cave, 97 moves bolted by local Matteo Rivadossi and climbed in 28 long minutes by Babicz who, originally from Poland, has chosen Italy’s Aosta valley as his second home.
The new route is called Uragano Dorato, Golden Hurricane, was climbed DTS (Dry Tooling Style), ie without figure of fours, is one of the most difficult worldwide and is, above all "one of the best drytooling routes I’ve ever climbed. So aesthetic, with beautiful moves on perfect scenery."
Babicz immediately dedicated the climb "to Tom Ballard, one of the strongest drytoolers and alpinists in the world, who recently lost his life along with Daniele Nardi on the slopes of Nanga Parbat."
View this post on Instagram
URAGANO DORATO: first ascent! Finaly I started to pursue my projects of 2019! The first is done! This brand new route in Bus del Quai (Iseo, Italy) have been my priority goal since last December. And now it’s finally freed! This route is THE line of the cliff above Iseo lake. Almost 50 metres long, it’s the hardest, the longest and the most direct line on the very center of the wall. It took me 28 minutes to complete all 97 moves, including some beautiful jumps on 54 holds! I’d like to dedicate my ascent to @tom.ballard one of the strongest drytoolers and alpinists on the world, who recently lost his life along with @danielenardialpinista on the slopes of Nanga Parbat, Karakorum. I would like to say big thank you to Matteo Rivadossi, who had a vision to bolt this line and invited me to work on it. I also say thanks to the bunch of local climbers who helped me complete this achievement. First of all, to @vincevaltu, without you nothing of this would be possible. You know, you will always be in my heart. Then thank you to @averzelettimarco and @danielefrialdi for all your help and hospitality. I think it’s one of the best drytooling routes I’ve ever climbed. So aesthetic, with beautiful moves on perfect scenery. I would like to invite all DTS drytoolers to come in Iseo, to try the route and admire a fabulous view from the cave. As for the grade, I propose D15 (obviously in DTS)! . #csercitoitaliano #esercitoitaliano #centrosportivoesercito #drytooling #dts #amuerte #dtsstyle