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Great mountaineering on Thalay Sagar: the Russian direttissima video
03/04/2017 - Alpinism
Great mountaineering on Thalay Sagar: the Russian direttissima video
The video of the first ascent of 'Moveable Feast', the huge new route up the north face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalaya first climbed from 9 - 17 September 2016 by the Russian alpinists Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
20/03/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
Winter mountaineering: on 17/03/2017 the alpinists Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben completed the traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo - Drei Zinnen - in the Dolomites, climbing Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima in 9 hours 15 minutes. This is certainly the first...
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
15/03/2017 - Climbing
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a pioneer and advocate of clean climbing, i.e. without pegs and...
Jernej Kruder climbs 9a sport and 8C boulder in just two days
09/03/2017 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs 9a sport and 8C boulder in just two days
In a mere two days Slovenian rock climber Jernej Kruder redpointed a 9a sport climb and an 8C boulder problem, namely 'Bi herri, borokka bat' and 'Catalan witness the fitness' at Cova del ocell in Spain.
Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt
07/03/2017 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt
The Everest winter expedition led by Alex Txikon is now in its final phase: after having reorganised the expedition and waited for several weeks, the Basque mountaineer along with several Sherpa has now reached Camp 2 and is about to begin his final bid for the summit.
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
04/03/2017 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the north face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold...
 Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains
23/02/2017 - Alpinism
Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains
Winter mountaineering in Molise, Italy: Riccardo Quaranta reports about Infinite Dreams (120m, AI4-, TD), the new mixed climb he established Monte Miletto in the Matese massif, established on 15/02/2017 with Agnese Flavi.
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
07/02/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
Mountaineering: Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia). This is the second Ragni di Lecco success after the historic first ascent, carried out by Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali.
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
05/02/2017 - Alpinism
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Ortler Pleishornwasserfall ice climb first ascent video
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Ortler Pleishornwasserfall ice climb first ascent video
Alpinism: the video documenting the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall, the new ice and mixed climb established on 13/12/2016 by Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer up the NE Face of Ortler (3905m).
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park win in Saas Fee
26/01/2017 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park win in Saas Fee
Last weekend South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park won the fourth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The Speed event was won by the Russians Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
18/01/2017 - Alpinism
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
16/01/2017 - Alpinism
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the north face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.