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Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow
15/04/2019 - Competitions
Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow
The second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 took place in Moscow, Russia, last weekend and was won by the Slovenian climbers Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder. The first stage of the Speed World Cup 2019 was won on Friday night by YiLing Song and Bassa Mawem.
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra win first Bouldering World Cup in Meiringen
07/04/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra win first Bouldering World Cup in Meiringen
The first stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won on Saturday at Meiringen in Switzerland by Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra.
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
02/04/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.
Aaron Durogati's autumn in the Dolomites in an audio story. By Giovanni Spitale
01/04/2019 - Book-press
Aaron Durogati's autumn in the Dolomites in an audio story. By Giovanni Spitale
Autumn in the Dolomites and the invisible air, from the point of view of the paragliding champion Aaron Durogati in this audio-story produced by Giovanni Spitale.
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
30/03/2019 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
While Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of his 8c+ project in Japan aged 50, in Spain 30-year-old Sachi Amma has redpointed his third 9b, Stoking the fire at Santa Linya.
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
In the Brenta Dolomites Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto skied the west couloir of Cima Brenta (3151m) on 09/03/2019, while on 25/03/2019 they skied the NW Face of Cima del Vallon (2968m).
Jacopo Larcher and Tribe, his most difficult trad climb at Cadarese / Interview
26/03/2019 - Interviews
Jacopo Larcher and Tribe, his most difficult trad climb at Cadarese / Interview
Interview with Jacopo Larcher after his first ascent of Tribe at Cadarese, Italy on 22 March 2019. The Italian rock climber defined the route as 'the most difficult thing I’ve ever climbed'.
Hansjörg Auer climbs new ice in his Ötztal mountains
25/03/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer climbs new ice in his Ötztal mountains
This winter Austrian mountaineer Hansjörg Auer ascended three new ice climbs in the Ötztal valley and made a solo first ascent up Rofele Wand in the Ötztal Alps.
Cimon della Pala: Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba forge new mixed climb in Dolomites
16/03/2019 - Alpinism
Cimon della Pala: Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba forge new mixed climb in Dolomites
On 24/02/2019 Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba made the first ascent of Via degli Allievi up the north face of Cimon della Pala. About 700m high and with difficulties around AI5 M4, this is likely to be a new mixed climb in the Pale di San Martino group in the...
Brenta Dolomites Cima Tosa East Face ski descent by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Brenta Dolomites Cima Tosa East Face ski descent by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Luca Dallavalle reports about the probable first ski descent of the east face of Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites, climbed and skied on 03/03/2019 with his brother Roberto Dallavalle.
Giuliano Cameroni frees REM, 8C+ boulder next to Dreamtime in Cresciano
11/03/2019 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni frees REM, 8C+ boulder next to Dreamtime in Cresciano
Swiss climber Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of REM, a boulder problem located on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano he believes warrants 8C+.
Nanga Parbat search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard continues
05/03/2019 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard continues
No substantial news from Nanga Parbat while the group of rescuers coordinated by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon worked hard at searching the mountain for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February. Tomorrow the search efforts will continue