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Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
08/05/2018 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 8 May 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to climb Mount Everest (8848m) without supplemental oxygen. The barrier-breaking undertaking deemed impossible that forever changed Himalayan mountaineering and raised the bar for all future ascents.
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
02/05/2018 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
Alpinists Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson have made the first ascent of Life Compass (IV 5.10a M4+ 80°, TD+, 980m of climbing), a big new alpine outing up the West Face of Mount Blane in Canada.
Everest - Lhotse traverse, Sherpa Tenji attempts mountaineering enchainment in memory of Ueli Steck
30/04/2018 - Interviews
Everest - Lhotse traverse, Sherpa Tenji attempts mountaineering enchainment in memory of Ueli Steck
Interview with British mountaineer Jon Griffith on expedition in Nepal where Sherpa Tenji will attempt the famous Everest - Lhotse traverse without supplementary oxygen. Griffith is coordinating the live streaming of the ascent in memory of his close friend Ueli Steck who planned this enchainment last year.
Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the Alps ski mountaineering traverse ends in Nice
Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the Alps ski mountaineering traverse ends in Nice
Yesterday the Red Bull Der Lange Weg came to an end in Nice, France. The long ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Vienna to Nice was completed by Bernhard Hug, David Wallmann, Philipp Reiter and Janelle Smiley and Mark Smiley after 1,721 kilometers and gained almost 90,000 meters...
New rock climbs at Meteora in Greece
21/04/2018 - Climbing
New rock climbs at Meteora in Greece
At Meteora in Greece the German climbers Frank Wehner, Tino Tanneberger, Manuel Hasterok, Felix Friedrich, Tom Ehrig and Felix Bähr have established two big multi-pitch climbs, Heureka (160m, 8+) and Marvelous Marbles (165m, 9+).
Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world
20/04/2018 - Interviews
Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world
In the run-up to Melloblocco 2018 that will take place from 3 to 6 May 2018 at Cresciano and Lugano we interviewed Claudio Cameroni, one of the first climbers who helped develop the Swiss bouldering area in the ‘90s in order to find out how Cresciano became one of most...
Sonia Livanos, goodbye to a great alpinist and woman
18/04/2018 - Alpinism
Sonia Livanos, goodbye to a great alpinist and woman
French alpinist Sonia Livanos passed away on 15 April 2018 in Marseilles hospital at the age of 95. In the '50s and' 60s together with her husband Georges Livanos she formed one of the strongest climbing partnerships in the Dolomites and beyond.
Caroline Ciavaldini makes first female ascent of The Quarryman in Wales
15/04/2018 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini makes first female ascent of The Quarryman in Wales
France's Caroline Ciavaldini has made the long-awaited first female ascent of The Quarryman in the slate quarries above Llanberris in North Wales. First ascended by Johnny Dawes back in 1986, this climb is one of the most famous multi-pitch rock climbs in Great Britain.
Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
10/04/2018 - Alpinism
Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
The first part of Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini has now come to an end. The Italian alpinists have climbed 13 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes and the final three will be attempted when...
Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson officially presumed dead in Alaska
15/03/2018 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson officially presumed dead in Alaska
The two highly talented alpinists Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson are officially missing and presumed deceased in Alaska. They have not been heard from since their 5 March ascent of the Mendenhall Towers.
Avers Valley ice climbing / new variation Risiko to Thron in Switzerland
07/03/2018 - Alpinism
Avers Valley ice climbing / new variation Risiko to Thron in Switzerland
Ice climbing in Switzerland: on Saturday 10 February 2018 Matteo Rivadossi and Leonardo Gheza swung leads to establish a new variation to the famous icefall Thron, also known as Mostro d'Avers in Val d'Avers. Interestingly, at exactly the same time they were joined by a Swiss team intent on climbing...
Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada
03/03/2018 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada
Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has established and freed Power Shrimps, a new ice climb at Helmcken Falls in Canada.
David Lama climbs Sagzahn - Verschneidung in Valsertal, Austria
01/03/2018 - Alpinism
David Lama climbs Sagzahn - Verschneidung in Valsertal, Austria
Alpinism in Austria: David Lama has completed the Sagzahn-Verschneidung in the Valsertal with Peter Mühlburger. The mixed route up the Sagwand is circa 800 meters high and graded M6/A2.
Torres Del Avellano / Big new climbs in Chilean Patagonia
28/02/2018 - Alpinism
Torres Del Avellano / Big new climbs in Chilean Patagonia
Will Sim and John Crook report about their climbing trip to the Torres Del Avellano in Patagonia, Chile, together with Paul Swail, John McCune and Ruth Bevan. The highlight of the expedition was a 1000 m new route up the East Face of the South Avellano Tower.
Once in a Lifetime in Val Lietres, spectacular ice climb in the Dolomites
23/02/2018 - Alpinism
Once in a Lifetime in Val Lietres, spectacular ice climb in the Dolomites
On Col Turont in Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have established Once in a Lifetime (WI6+, M8, 165 m), a beautiful icefall which probably has never been climbed before.
Jim Bridwell, goodbye to legendary rock climber The Bird
17/02/2018 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, goodbye to legendary rock climber The Bird
Jim Bridwell has left us. Yesterday, February 16th 2018, one of the absolute legends of rock climbing and mountaineering, died aged 73.