Home page Planetmountain.com
Matteo Della Bordella climbing Polenta con farina degli altri, Reissend Nollen, Wenden, Switzerland
Photo by archivio Matteo Della Bordella
Dimitri Anghileri climbing Polenta con farina degli altri, Reissend Nollen, Wenden, Switzerland
Photo by archivio Matteo Della Bordella
Paolo Spreafico and Matteo Della Bordella on Polenta con farina degli altri, Reissend Nollen, Wenden, Switzerland
Photo by archivio Matteo Della Bordella
Polenta con farina degli altri, Reissend Nollen, Wenden, Switzerland, started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck and completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dimitri Anghileri, Paolo Spreafico.
Photo by archivio Matteo Della Bordella

Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb

di

On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.

Polenta con farina degli altri was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck at the beginning of the new millennium. Unfortunately neither of them are with us any longer so it’s difficult to find precise information about their attempt. What is certain however is that the two great alpinists established the first four pitches and placed three bolts on the fifth pitch before putting the project off for another day.

In 2005, after the first free ascent of Portami Via Ueli approached Fabio Palma and myself and suggested we finish the route off, either with or without him. Unfortunately Fabio and I missed the boat. We were too absorbed in our new project, Via Coelophysis, and personally at the time I didn’t feel I was good enough to establish a route with someone of Ueli’s calibre. I always thought that Ueli would complete the route sooner or later, with us or with someone else, but unfortunately this wasn’t the case.

This summer I reached the conclusion that it was a real shame to leave this line incomplete, and since Ueli and Kaspar were no longer here to finish it off, maybe we could give it a go.

Polenta con farina degli altri is now the fourth route I’ve established in Wenden. Seven years after my last one, I rediscovered the same excitement and emotions as back then, even if so many things have changed in the meantime. I often thought nostalgically about my traditional climbing partner Fabio Palma, it would have been great to have him on board, too. Luckily though I could count on two other young and enthusiastic new routers, Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico (both Ragni di Lecco), on other friends and also my partner, whom I sincerely thank for having joined me up in the mountains.

The name Polenta con farina degli altri - polenta with other people’s flour - stems from the fact that Ueli and Kaspar provided the flour, all we did was make polenta with what they’d ground. I reckon the name is lighthearted but at the same time respectful to all those concerned. And also, at the end of the day, regardless of who provided the flour… what’s important is that we all eat it, ideally with great friends and a good bottle of wine!

Matteo Della Bordella, Ragni di Lecco

POLENTA CON FARINA DEGLI ALTRI
Started by K. Ochsner, U.Steck
Completed by M. Della Bordella, D. Anghileri, P. Spreafico, 2018
First free ascent: Matteo Della Bordella belayed by Silvan Schüpbach 28/9/2018
8b max (7b obligatory) 450 m
Gear: 12 quickdraws and a set of Friends up to #2

Info: www.ragnilecco.comFB Matteo Della Bordella

View this post on Instagram

Serviva solo un pizzico di fortuna , trovare la giornata con le condizioni giuste ed avere un grande socio ed amico come @silvanschupbach per mangiarsi tutta la polenta e chiudere definitivamente i conti con la nostra nuova via in Wenden. . E' la quarta via che apro in Wenden, dopo una pausa di 7 anni dall'ultima, era ora di riprendere il trapano in mano! . La prima senza il mio grande socio storico @fabiopalma1965 , del quale, devo essere onesto ho sentito la mancanza in diversi momenti. Per fortuna ci sono stati tanti altri compagni ed amici al mio fianco che ringrazio per aver condiviso con me queste 10 giornate sul calcare del Wenden @dimitri_anghileri Paolo Spreafico, @matteo_pasquetto, @aircold . La "polenta con farina degli altri" è cotta e mangiata...Nei prossimi giorni qualche dettaglio in più sulla via #adidas #adidasterrex @adidasterrex @adidasita @kong.italy @borealoutdoor @dfsportspecialist @terracielomare #asporteyewear @ragnidilecco @cailecco #polentaconfarinadeglialtri #wendenstocke #wenden #firstascent #newroute #groundup #Switzerland #alps #gadmen #freeclimbing #RockClimbing #reissendnollen #RagnidiLecco #firstfreeascent #limestone #bigwall #multipitch

A post shared by Matteo Della Bordella (@matteodellabordella) on

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
04.10.2016
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
Wenden: new climb by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach
26.06.2014
Wenden: new climb by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach
On 6 and 7 June 2014 Silvan Schüpbach and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of El Gordo (6c/7a, 450m) on Wendenstöcke, Switzerland
Infinite Jest, the Wenden film by the Ragni di Lecco
08.06.2013
Infinite Jest, the Wenden film by the Ragni di Lecco
The film by the Ragni di Lecco which documents the climbing at Wenden, Switzerland. An homage to the beauty and the climbing on this legendary alpine face.
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31.10.2012
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra