Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Polenta con farina degli altri was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck at the beginning of the new millennium. Unfortunately neither of them are with us any longer so it’s difficult to find precise information about their attempt. What is certain however is that the two great alpinists established the first four pitches and placed three bolts on the fifth pitch before putting the project off for another day.
In 2005, after the first free ascent of Portami Via Ueli approached Fabio Palma and myself and suggested we finish the route off, either with or without him. Unfortunately Fabio and I missed the boat. We were too absorbed in our new project, Via Coelophysis, and personally at the time I didn’t feel I was good enough to establish a route with someone of Ueli’s calibre. I always thought that Ueli would complete the route sooner or later, with us or with someone else, but unfortunately this wasn’t the case.
This summer I reached the conclusion that it was a real shame to leave this line incomplete, and since Ueli and Kaspar were no longer here to finish it off, maybe we could give it a go.
Polenta con farina degli altri is now the fourth route I’ve established in Wenden. Seven years after my last one, I rediscovered the same excitement and emotions as back then, even if so many things have changed in the meantime. I often thought nostalgically about my traditional climbing partner Fabio Palma, it would have been great to have him on board, too. Luckily though I could count on two other young and enthusiastic new routers, Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico (both Ragni di Lecco), on other friends and also my partner, whom I sincerely thank for having joined me up in the mountains.
The name Polenta con farina degli altri - polenta with other people’s flour - stems from the fact that Ueli and Kaspar provided the flour, all we did was make polenta with what they’d ground. I reckon the name is lighthearted but at the same time respectful to all those concerned. And also, at the end of the day, regardless of who provided the flour… what’s important is that we all eat it, ideally with great friends and a good bottle of wine!
Matteo Della Bordella, Ragni di Lecco
POLENTA CON FARINA DEGLI ALTRI
Started by K. Ochsner, U.Steck
Completed by M. Della Bordella, D. Anghileri, P. Spreafico, 2018
First free ascent: Matteo Della Bordella belayed by Silvan Schüpbach 28/9/2018
8b max (7b obligatory) 450 m
Gear: 12 quickdraws and a set of Friends up to #2
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Serviva solo un pizzico di fortuna , trovare la giornata con le condizioni giuste ed avere un grande socio ed amico come @silvanschupbach per mangiarsi tutta la polenta e chiudere definitivamente i conti con la nostra nuova via in Wenden. . E' la quarta via che apro in Wenden, dopo una pausa di 7 anni dall'ultima, era ora di riprendere il trapano in mano! . La prima senza il mio grande socio storico @fabiopalma1965 , del quale, devo essere onesto ho sentito la mancanza in diversi momenti. Per fortuna ci sono stati tanti altri compagni ed amici al mio fianco che ringrazio per aver condiviso con me queste 10 giornate sul calcare del Wenden @dimitri_anghileri Paolo Spreafico, @matteo_pasquetto, @aircold . La "polenta con farina degli altri" è cotta e mangiata...Nei prossimi giorni qualche dettaglio in più sulla via #adidas #adidasterrex @adidasterrex @adidasita @kong.italy @borealoutdoor @dfsportspecialist @terracielomare #asporteyewear @ragnidilecco @cailecco #polentaconfarinadeglialtri #wendenstocke #wenden #firstascent #newroute #groundup #Switzerland #alps #gadmen #freeclimbing #RockClimbing #reissendnollen #RagnidiLecco #firstfreeascent #limestone #bigwall #multipitch