Home page Planetmountain.com
Silvan Schüpbach & Luca Schiera on the crux pitch of El Gordo (6c/7a, 450m), Wendenstöcke, Switzerland
Photo by Silvan Schüpbach
6b+ slab protected by pegs. El Gordo (6c/7a, 450m, Silvan Schüpbach & Luca Schiera 06/2014) Wendenstöcke, Switzerland
Photo by Silvan Schüpbach

Wenden: new climb by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach


On 6 and 7 June 2014 Silvan Schüpbach and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of El Gordo (6c/7a, 450m) on Wendenstöcke, Switzerland

At the start of June Switzerland's Silvan Schüpbach and Italy's Luca Schiera made the first ascent of El Gordo, a 13 pitch line to the left of the Reissend Nollen peak in the massive limestone kingdom Wendenstöcke.

The two climbers established El Gordo ground-up and onsight, breaching difficulties somewhere in the region of 6c/7a and using only trad gear and pegs to protect the circa 450m line. "A long term dream of mine has come true" Schüpbach told Planetmountain, explaining "I'd seen the line a while back. While half the route follows a predominantly "classic" terrain, the other half offers first-class Wenden climbing with several demanding sections past pockets and technical slabs. The interesting thing is that it reaches the top of a peak that has probably never been summited before. In fact, there are no other routes in the entire face..."

Schiera and Schüpbach climbed the first four pitches on the 6th of June and, after having fixed these and abseiled back to the base, climbed the rest of the route the next day. It is worth noting that while the ascent was made with trad gear and pegs only, bolts were subsequently placed during the descent to facilitate the abseil. Almost all belays are now equipped with at least one bolt.

El Gordo is Schüpbach's second route on the Wendenstöcke after La Röschtigraben (700m, 8a+, 7b obligatory).

TOPO: El Gordo, Wenden





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer