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El Gordo

First ascent: Luca Schiera, Silvan Schüpbach 06-07/06/2014
By: Planetmountain
Area: Swiss Alps, Group: Wenden, Peak: Reissend Nollen, Country: Switzerland

Climbed ground-up and onsight over two days by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach who breached difficulties somewhere in the region of 6c/7a using only trad gear and pegs to protect the circa 450m line.

 "A long term dream of mine has come true" explained Schüpbach. "While half the route follows a predominantly "classic" terrain, the other half offers first-class Wenden climbing with several demanding sections past pockets and technical slabs."

GETTING THERE

Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp

ACCESS

From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. From the Reissend Nollen bivy traverse left for circa 30 minutes to reach the base of the route.

ROUTE

P1: 5a, 15m
P2: 5a, 50m
P3: 6b+, 55m
P4: 6b+, 15m
P5: 5c, 50m
P6: 3+, 25m
P7: 5b, 50m
P8: 5b, 60m
P9: 6c+, 30m
P10: 6b, 20m
P11: 6c, 35m
P12 6b+, 40
P13: II, 60m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

NOTES

It is worth noting that while the first ascent was made with trad gear and pegs only, bolts were subsequently placed during the descent to facilitate the abseil. Almost all belays are now equipped with at least one bolt.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6c/7a

LENGTH

450m

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El Gordo

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