Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowEl Gordo

El Gordo

First ascent: Luca Schiera, Silvan Schüpbach 06-07/06/2014
By: Planetmountain
Area: Swiss Alps, Group: Wenden, Peak: Reissend Nollen, Country: Switzerland

Climbed ground-up and onsight over two days by Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach who breached difficulties somewhere in the region of 6c/7a using only trad gear and pegs to protect the circa 450m line.

 "A long term dream of mine has come true" explained Schüpbach. "While half the route follows a predominantly "classic" terrain, the other half offers first-class Wenden climbing with several demanding sections past pockets and technical slabs."

GETTING THERE

Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp

ACCESS

From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. From the Reissend Nollen bivy traverse left for circa 30 minutes to reach the base of the route.

ROUTE

P1: 5a, 15m
P2: 5a, 50m
P3: 6b+, 55m
P4: 6b+, 15m
P5: 5c, 50m
P6: 3+, 25m
P7: 5b, 50m
P8: 5b, 60m
P9: 6c+, 30m
P10: 6b, 20m
P11: 6c, 35m
P12 6b+, 40
P13: II, 60m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

NOTES

It is worth noting that while the first ascent was made with trad gear and pegs only, bolts were subsequently placed during the descent to facilitate the abseil. Almost all belays are now equipped with at least one bolt.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "El Gordo"

No comments found for El Gordo

Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

6c/7a

LENGTH

450m

PDF

El Gordo

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.slack-line.ch

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon
  • Diretta Consiglio
    Salita tanti anni fa, nel 1969, ovviamente senza friend (che ...
    2014-08-18 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Welcome to Tijuana
    Ieri sabato 02 agosto, io e il mio compagno Aldo Mazzotti, s ...
    2014-08-03 / Gianni Canale