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Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi & Luca Schiera climb new route up Cerro Mariposa
21/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi & Luca Schiera climb new route up Cerro Mariposa
On 15 and 16 March 2017 the two Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi established a new route up Cerro Mariposa in Patagonia.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
20/03/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
Winter mountaineering: on 17/03/2017 the alpinists Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben completed the traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo - Drei Zinnen - in the Dolomites, climbing Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima in 9 hours 15 minutes. This is certainly the first...
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell
19/03/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell
The entire film A Snowball's Chance in Hell, featuring Austrian alpinists David Lama and Peter Ortner making the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out in January 2012.
Cerro Torre Ragni route: Daniel Joll & Kim Ladiges make first 2017 ascent
11/03/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route: Daniel Joll & Kim Ladiges make first 2017 ascent
The video the documents the first ascent in the 2016/2017 season on the Ragni route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by New Zealand’s Daniel Joll and Kim Ladiges.
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
04/03/2017 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
10/02/2017 - Alpinism
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.
Ötztal Freizeitstress ice climb established in Austria by Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger
10/02/2017 - Alpinism
Ötztal Freizeitstress ice climb established in Austria by Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger
On 19/01/2017 Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger made the first ascent of Freizeitstress, a new mixed climb in Ötztal, Austria.
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
07/02/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
Mountaineering: Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia). This is the second Ragni di Lecco success after the historic first ascent, carried out by Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali.
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
16/01/2017 - Alpinism
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.
Kyzyl Asker, the short film of Ines Papert and Luka Lindič in Kyrgyzstan
11/01/2017 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker, the short film of Ines Papert and Luka Lindič in Kyrgyzstan
The short film of Luka Lindič e Ines Papert and their first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
11/01/2017 - Alpinism
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the North Face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian...
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
28/12/2016 - Alpinism
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...