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Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II
02/08/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II
Climbing alpine style, the 46-year-old Russian-Polish mountaineer Denis Urubko has forged a new route up Gasherbrum II (8032m) in Pakistan.
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
10/07/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and the summit of Mont Blanc.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
03/07/2019 - Alpinism
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
mountaineering on Mont Blanc and a stone's throw from the Torino refuge: Aosta mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces two new mixed climb on Grand Flambeau, Koala Pirla and La Vie in Rosa.
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
17/06/2019 - Alpinism
mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts directly from the valley floor, is fast & light and...
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
31/05/2019 - Alpinism
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain
29/05/2019 - Climbing
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain
Bad weather did not stop the 7th edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival which welcomed a record number of climbers. Organised by the ‘Gamatzn' climbing club, the meeting took place from 24 to 26 May 2019 at Sexten and in the Höhlensteintal in the Dolomites, close to the world famous...
The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House
American alpinist Steve House has created a free video series entitled Alpine Principles to teach the climbing community how to make better decisions in the mountains.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 final countdown
22/05/2019 - Climbing
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 final countdown
From 24 to 26 May 2019 the 7th edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place, the climbing meeting open to all close to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, Italy.
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
20/05/2019 - Interviews
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
Interview with Christian Sordo, mountain guide and one of the driving forces behind Dolorock, the international climbing meeting that will take place from 24 to 26 May 2019 in Höhlensteintal, close to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo / Drei Zinnen, Dolomites.

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