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Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs
03/03/2020 - Climbing
Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs
German rock climber Lena Müller has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung, the 8b/+ E9/E10 trad climb located at Bürser Platte, Austria freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander.
Fabian Buhl paraglides off Cerro Torre
08/02/2020 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl paraglides off Cerro Torre
Paralpinism in Patagonia: German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has made a paraglide flight off the summit of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. The 29-year-old is the first to do so after reaching the summit by his own means.
Top Spanish bouldering area Hoya Moros for sale
20/01/2020 - Climbing
Top Spanish bouldering area Hoya Moros for sale
Hoya Moros, one of Spain’s premier summer bouldering and climbing areas, is for sale and may be at risk of closure. The area is popular for trekking, trail running, mountain biking and ski mountaineering and a petition has been launched to safeguard the area’s future.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Trident de Comboé in Aosta Valley skied by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey
Trident de Comboé in Aosta Valley skied by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey
On 08/01/2020 Davide Capozzi and Alessandro Letey descended Trident de Comboé in the Aosta Valley, Italy. This may well be the first ski and snowboard descent of the exposed West Face. Capozzi provides the details.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Dolomites Val Mesdì unveils demanding new mixed climb
02/01/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Val Mesdì unveils demanding new mixed climb
Mirco Grasso, Daniel Ladurner, Santiago Padrós have made the first ascent of Para arriba, nach unten e bevilo! in the Val de Mesdi, Sella group, Dolomites. The two-pitch icefall was established ground-up with pegs and bolts, and has been graded M8 WI5. Grasso reports.
Stefano Carnati fast and furious up Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef
23/12/2019 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati fast and furious up Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef
At Margalef in Spain Stefano Carnati has repeated Demencia Senil, the 9a+ sport climb first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2009.
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
12/12/2019 - Book-press
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker about his new book Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Simon Chatelan climbs new mixed route in Gastlosen massif, Switzerland
29/11/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Chatelan climbs new mixed route in Gastlosen massif, Switzerland
Swiss mountaineer Simon Chatelan reports about his new mixed route From Kirov with Love (200m, M9), established solo and then freed with Nicolas Jaquet.
Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80
Orazio Codega, president and genuine soul of CAMP, has passed away aged 80. Born in 1939, from the Sixties until 2004 he shaped the Italian company into becoming it one of the world leaders in the production of climbing and mountaineering equipment.
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans, Markus Dorfleitner, Christian Schlesener and Moritz Attenberger have established a new route up Grundtvigskirken (1977m) in Greenland. The entire German expedition was carried out by fair means.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.

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