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Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.
The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth
22/05/2019 - Climbing
The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth
The film Statement of Youth / The Birth of British Sport Climbing directed by Nick Brown featuring Jerry Moffatt, Ben Moon, Chris Gore, Andy Pollitt, Martin Atkinson, Mark Pretty, Craig Smith, Steve Lewis, Mark Leach, Ed Douglas.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret king and queen of Munich
20/05/2019 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret king and queen of Munich
The fifth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won yesterday by Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret in Munich, Germany. Fanny Gibert and Adam Ondra took silver, Mia Krampl and Jan Hojer bronze.
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
20/05/2019 - Interviews
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
Interview with Christian Sordo, mountain guide and one of the driving forces behind Dolorock, the international climbing meeting that will take place from 24 to 26 May 2019 in Höhlensteintal, close to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo / Drei Zinnen, Dolomites.
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
Arco Rock Star 2019 international climbing photography contest starts Friday
08/05/2019 - Events
Arco Rock Star 2019 international climbing photography contest starts Friday
The Arco Rock Star international climbing photography contest will be held from 10 to 12 May 2019 at Arco, Italy. Registration is still open for the OPEN category. The event takes place during the Adventure Awards Days festival; Stefano Gregoretti will receive the Best Adventurer award.
Enrico Baistrocchi: Japan, climbing, respect
06/05/2019 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi: Japan, climbing, respect
Enrico Baistrocchi shares his experience in Japan, where he worked as route setter for the Pump Climbing gyms. His sojourn in the Land of the Rising Sun revealed some secrets, first and foremost respect.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
28/04/2019 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
The most difficult Mezzlama ski mountaineering competition of all times was won on Sunday 28 April 2019 by the Italians Robert Antonioli, Michele Boscacci and Matteo Eydallin. France’s Lorna Bonnel and Axelle Mollaret and Italy’s Alba de Silvestro dominated the women’s race.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow
15/04/2019 - Competitions
Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow
The second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 took place in Moscow, Russia, last weekend and was won by the Slovenian climbers Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder. The first stage of the Speed World Cup 2019 was won on Friday night by YiLing Song and Bassa Mawem.

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