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Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
07/12/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and Co.
Kang Nachugo first ascent for Joe Puryear & David Gottlieb
25/11/2008 - Alpinism
Kang Nachugo first ascent for Joe Puryear & David Gottlieb
Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb have completed the first ascent of Kang Nachugo (6735 meters) in the Rolwaling Himalaya. Climbing for 5 days in alpine style, the two summited their 1800m route on October 17 after having overcome 90-degree snow and ice.
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
18/11/2008 - Alpinism
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
Last summer Ales Holc, Matej Smrkolj e Tadej Kriselj carried out the first ascent of Slovenian birthday party (TD+, 1000m) on the North Face of Pik Parashutny 5360m. Tine Marence and Andrej Magajne carried out the probabile first repeat of thee Slovenian Route on Pik Troglav and a quick ascent...
K2: Base Camp safety for van Rooijen, Van de Gevel and Pemba Sherpa. Confortola in C2
03/08/2008 - Alpinism
K2: Base Camp safety for van Rooijen, Van de Gevel and Pemba Sherpa. Confortola in C2
Wilco van Rooijen, Cas Van de Gevel and Pemba Sherpa have reached Base Camp, Marco Confortola is in Camp 2.
Piz Badile 'Cassin' and 'British' solo winter ascents by Valseschini and Libera
25/02/2008 - Alpinism
Piz Badile 'Cassin' and 'British' solo winter ascents by Valseschini and Libera
From 17-20/02/2008 Fabio Valseschini carried out the first solo winter ascent of the British route on the ENE Face of Piz Badile, while from 21-23/02/2008 Rossano Libera made the first solo winter ascent of the Cassin route up the NE Face.
Torre traverse completed by Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley
30/01/2008 - Alpinism
Torre traverse completed by Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley
From 21 – 24 January 2008 the Italo-Argentine mountaineer Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley from the U.S.A. carried out the first traverse of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre, one of the most coveted projects in Patagonia.
Jasper and Rathmayr ice climbing fest in Bernese Oberland
15/01/2008 - Alpinism
Jasper and Rathmayr ice climbing fest in Bernese Oberland
Over three days at the start of January Robert Jasper from Germany and Bernd Rathmayr from Switzerland ascended three immense icefalls in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland climbing over a kilometer of vertical ice in the Lauterbrunnental and Kandersteg.
Annapurna: Tomasz Humar south face report
19/11/2007 - Alpinism
Annapurna: Tomasz Humar south face report
Tomaz Humar reveals details of his solo adventure to the East Summit of Annapurna (8047m) via a new line up the South Face.
Mixed solo climbs by Ezio Marlier in Alps
04/06/2007 - Alpinism
Mixed solo climbs by Ezio Marlier in Alps
Two new routes solo by Ezio Marlier, Spirito Libero (600m IV/4/M4) on Monte Emilius and Aragon (500m IV/4+/M6/A1) on Granta Parey, plus the solo repeats of some classic climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Grandes Jorasses give some food for thought about climbing "without partners".
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
21/02/2007 - Alpinism
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine, Patagonia). A beautiful route, great company and a fantastic adventure...
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
19/09/2006 - Climbing
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
On 30 August Nicolas Favresse made the first ascent of "Lost in translation" a 400m, 10-pitch free climb (5.12b/c) on the East Face of El Capitan together with 30-year-old Ivo Ninov from Bulgaria.
Pelmo SW Direct repeat by Roverato and Matteraglia
06/07/2006 - Alpinism
Pelmo SW Direct repeat by Roverato and Matteraglia
On 1-2/07 Alessio Roverato and Luca Matteraglia repeated the Diretta alla parete Sud Ovest on Mt. Pelmo (Dolomites). First ascended in 1977 by Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee and Giovanni Groaz, the route had been repeated only once in 1986.
Alan Hinkes climbs world's 14 highest peaks!
06/06/2005 - Alpinism
Alan Hinkes climbs world's 14 highest peaks!
On 30 May British mountaineer Alan Hinkes reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8586m). In doing so he became the first Briton to summit the world's fourteen 8000m peaks
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
10/02/2005 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
The jury, headed by Krzysztof Wielicki, and the six candidates for the Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagnes Magazine
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
25/11/2004 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
On 29/11, Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Zaluski Jacek Jawien and Piotr Morawski head for Tibetto attempt the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m).
North Twin new route climbed by Steve House, Marko Prezel
11/06/2004 - Alpinism
North Twin new route climbed by Steve House, Marko Prezel
In April Steve House and Marko Prezelj made the coveted third ascent of the 5000 foot North face of North Twin, Canadian Rockies, via a new line.

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