382 News found

Denis Urubko, with his recent new route up the SE Face of Cho Oyu, has climbed all fourteen 8000m summits.

Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.

On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).

Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.

From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.

Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).

Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.

The news is just in: at 14.00 (local time) Simone Moro and Denis Urubko reached the 8462m high summit of Makalu, carrying out the historic first winter ascent of the 5th highest mountain in the world.

Dave Macleod has carried out the first repeat of The Walk of Life at Dyer's Lookout, North Devon, England, downgrading the route to E9 6c.

Perfect winter conditions in Great Britain have resulted in a series of first ascents on Ben Nevis in Scotland and in the Lake District in England.

At the end of December Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhistan will attempt the first winter ascent of Makalu 8463m (Himalaya, Nepal), the fifth highest mountain in the world.

On 28 October the French mountaineers Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz reached the summit of Nuptse (7861m, Khumbu, Himalaya) via a new route up the grandiose South Face.

On 11 June Iganzio Piuzzi died in Gemona aged 73. He was one of the greatest mountaineers in the period 1950 – 1970. His climbing companion Roberto Sorgato remembers him in the following interview.

On the 7th, of March Valery Babanov, Hervé Barmasse, Ettore Taufer, Giovanni Amort, Elio Sganga and Marco Farina (Alpine Training Centre), Christophe Profit and Pemba Doma Sherpa all received their Saint Vincent Awards for Mountain Professionals in front of a packed evening audience in the Casino of the Valley.

Simone Moro has established Camp 3 on Broad Peak (8047m) together with Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali. Summit push tomorrow.

From 17-20/02/2008 Fabio Valseschini carried out the first solo winter ascent of the British route on the ENE Face of Piz Badile, while from 21-23/02/2008 Rossano Libera made the first solo winter ascent of the Cassin route up the NE Face.