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Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli
20/03/2018 - Alpinism
Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli
The report by Matteo Giglio who teamed up with François Cazzanelli to make the first ascent of a mixed climb called Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8) up the Paretone di Chevril face in Valle di Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Jumbo Jet direct start in Val Lietres, Dolomites
14/03/2018 - Alpinism
Jumbo Jet direct start in Val Lietres, Dolomites
In Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have added a direct start, up rock, to the famous icefall Jumbo Jet. With this new variant the route tackles overall difficulties up to M7 WI5+.
The metamorphosis of James Pearson /  Power Ranger at Sunset Rocks, USA
10/03/2018 - Climbing
The metamorphosis of James Pearson / Power Ranger at Sunset Rocks, USA
The tongue-in-cheek video of British climber James Pearson and the transformation he underwent to make the first ascent of Power Ranger (5.14R / 8c) at Sunset Rocks, Chattanooga, USA.
South Tyrol ice climbing, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish MFG
08/03/2018 - Alpinism
South Tyrol ice climbing, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish MFG
Simon Gietl reports about MFG, a new mixed climb at Rein in Taufers in the Dolomites, Italy, first ascended with Vittorio Messini.
Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada
03/03/2018 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada
Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has established and freed Power Shrimps, a new ice climb at Helmcken Falls in Canada.
Jim Bridwell, at the forefront of climbing and alpinism since the 60's
22/02/2018 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, at the forefront of climbing and alpinism since the 60's
The 2002 interview / portrait of American climber and mountaineer Jim Bridwell, one of the undisputed driving forces of rock climbing in Yosemite and on the world’s most inhospitable mountains, who died on 16 February 2018 at the age of 73. By Vinicio Stefanello.
Grit & Rock Award: Nepal Mugu Peaks Expedition wins First Ascent Award
20/02/2018 - Alpinism
Grit & Rock Award: Nepal Mugu Peaks Expedition wins First Ascent Award
The women’s expedition comprised of Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil and Ixchel Foord has won the main grant of the First Ascent Expedition Award promoted by the Grit & Rock Award foundation aimed at promoting female first ascents. The expedition will attempt the unclimbed Mugu Peaks in Nepal in October.
Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
16/02/2018 - Alpinism
Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up...
Solo per un altro Hashtag, new ice and mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites
13/02/2018 - Alpinism
Solo per un altro Hashtag, new ice and mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: Johannes Egger reports about the first ascent of Solo per un altro Hashtag, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella massif, first ascended on 27/01/2018 with Jörg Niedermayr and Friedl Brancalion.
Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France
12/02/2018 - Interviews
Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra after the historic world’s first 9a+ flash, on Super Crackinette at Saint-Léger du Ventoux climbed on 10 February 2018.
Adam Ondra claims world’s first 9a+ flash at St. Léger
11/02/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra claims world’s first 9a+ flash at St. Léger
At Saint Léger in France Adam Ondra has made a flash ascent of Super Crackinette. This is the first time a 9a+ has successfully been flashed.
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
05/02/2018 - Alpinism
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga...
Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera establish Maracaibo up Cerro Pollone
30/01/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera establish Maracaibo up Cerro Pollone
On the NW Face of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera established Maracaibo, a new rock climb 300 meters high graded 7a/C1.
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
28/01/2018 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical treatment, while the four mountaineers will return to their attempt...
Drama on Nanga Parbat, fears for Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol
26/01/2018 - Alpinism
Drama on Nanga Parbat, fears for Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol
High up on Nanga Parbat the Polish mountaineer Tomek Mackiewicz and France’s Elisabeth Revol have reportedly run into difficulty during their attempt to climb the mountain in winter. A rescue operation has been organised from K2.
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
17/01/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Giorgia Tesio made the first female ascent of Hyaena. First climbed in 1986 by Andrea Gallo, this sport climb has remained a reference point for top end sport climbing.

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