Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli
The report by Matteo Giglio who teamed up with François Cazzanelli to make the first ascent of a mixed climb called Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8) up the Paretone di Chevril face in Valle di Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
"Burian" and "tailend of winter" are the words which are being used the most recently. This spell of cold weather, which should be the norm for winter, has unfortunately become an exceptional occurrence; seasons seem to have gone haywire.
These pub thoughts explain the reasoning behind the name of the new mixed climb I first ascended with François Cazzanelli on the Paretone di Chevril face, situated in the lower Cogne Valley but still within the municipality of Aymavilles: Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8).
It is an ephemeral line that formed extremely rarely during the last few decades. And although this year it wasn’t in its best condition, coincidentally all the stars aligned for a successful ascent.
Given the right temperatures, the route is a very varied and fun outing that provides committing but never too dangerous climbing. The ambient feels like it’s on a big mountain face, despite it’s modest height. Since there’s no phone coverage the day feels all the more adventurous ... and is certainly free from social media and similar amenities :-)
For all the info concerning the other routes in this sector I recommend my guidebook Effimeri barbagli which includes topos of Cogli l'attimo and Mephistic ice.