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Burian in Valle di Cogne: Matteo Giglio climbing the first pitch, Scottish style
Photo by François Cazzanelli
Burian in Valle di Cogne: François Cazzanelli climbing pitch 4
Photo by Matteo Giglio
Paretone di Chevril in Valle di Cogne with the routes 1. Cogli l'attimo (Gianluca Maspes, S Righetti 1995) 2. Burian (François Cazzanelli, Matteo Giglio 2018) 3. Mephistic Ice (François Damilano, Ezio Marlier 1999)
Photo by Matteo Giglio

Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli


The report by Matteo Giglio who teamed up with François Cazzanelli to make the first ascent of a mixed climb called Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8) up the Paretone di Chevril face in Valle di Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.

"Burian" and "tailend of winter" are the words which are being used the most recently. This spell of cold weather, which should be the norm for winter, has unfortunately become an exceptional occurrence; seasons seem to have gone haywire.

These pub thoughts explain the reasoning behind the name of the new mixed climb I first ascended with François Cazzanelli on the Paretone di Chevril face, situated in the lower Cogne Valley but still within the municipality of Aymavilles: Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8).

It is an ephemeral line that formed extremely rarely during the last few decades. And although this year it wasn’t in its best condition, coincidentally all the stars aligned for a successful ascent.

Given the right temperatures, the route is a very varied and fun outing that provides committing but never too dangerous climbing. The ambient feels like it’s on a big mountain face, despite it’s modest height. Since there’s no phone coverage the day feels all the more adventurous ... and is certainly free from social media and similar amenities :-)

For all the info concerning the other routes in this sector I recommend my guidebook Effimeri barbagli which includes topos of Cogli l'attimo and Mephistic ice.

by Matteo Giglio

TOPO: Burian in Valle di Cogne

Matteo thanks: CAMP, SCARPA, Blue Ice, Edelweiss, Montura, Salice

Link: matteo-giglio.blogspot.it, FB Matteo Giglio, FB François Cazzanelli


NEWS / Related news:
Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
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On the Singlin rock face in Valtournenche (Valle d’Aosta, Italy) François Cazzanelli and Nicolò Buongiorno have established a new mixed climb called Il Sole di Mezzogiorno (150m, M5, 6a)
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
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On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë and more.




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