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Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
07/06/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing ordeal that turned out to be one of the most...
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...
Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)
27/05/2016 - Alpinism
Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)
The report of the recent ascent of via dello Spigolo (Canne d’organo) at Costa della Scogliera, Monte Argentario, by Emiliano Cupellaro, hailed as possibly the most beautiful grade III and IV climbing in the Mediterranean.
Mont Blanc Major Route: ski descent by Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano
Mont Blanc Major Route: ski descent by Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano
On 6 May 2016 the mountain guides from Courmayeur Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano skied the Major Route down the East Face of Mont Blanc. Theirs is only the second descent of this line in 37 years, after the first descent carried out by Stefano de Benedetti on 7...
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
20/05/2016 - Climbing
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
In April 2016 Jonas Wallin from Sweden and David Kaszlikowski from Poland established Fever Dreams (7c max, 9 pitches) on the previously unclimbed Mumbar cliff in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman island, Malaysia. To access the mountain team had to find and cut new trail in the jungle.
Matterhorn East Face ski descent: in the right place at the right time
Matterhorn East Face ski descent: in the right place at the right time
Giulia Monego, Liv Sansoz, Lorraine Huber and Melissa Presslaber and their ski descent down the East Face of the Matterhorn. Giulia Monego reports.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the...
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
02/05/2016 - Climbing
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
British rock climber James McHaffie has made the first ascent of House of Talons, an E9 6c on Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Wales.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks
17/03/2016 - Climbing
Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks
Canadian climber Sean McColl repeating the trad climb Gaia E8 6c, established by Johnny Dawes at Black Rocks in England.
Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line
Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line
The video of the fracture line of the avalanche that on Saturday, March 12, 2016 killed six ski mountaineers on Schneebiger Nock (3358m) in Ahrntal, Italy. This is reportedly the most deadly avalanche accident in the South Tyrol in 25 years.
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
11/03/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the South Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
26/02/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned...

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