Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)

The report of the recent ascent of via dello Spigolo (Canne d’organo) at Costa della Scogliera, Monte Argentario, by Emiliano Cupellaro, hailed as possibly the most beautiful grade III and IV climbing in the Mediterranean.
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Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo, Costa della Scogliera, Monte Argentario
Eraldo Meraldi

A simple outing, surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation, close to the crag "Canne d’organo”… and yet Via dello Spigolo is a climb that requires mountaineering skills, due to its length, the fact that you need to add your own gear, and the overall demands of the line.

I’d thought about it for some time, searched for some information. Silvia Sole and I got organsied, headed to Porto Ercole, and began to carefully study the topo. I took a copy just in case, and after several attempts we found the start of the trail that lead to the base of the corner. We racked up and I started up a 10m vertical crack, then I tried to find the line to reach the first belay but climbed off route, too far to the right and returned to the crack. I looked more closely and saw the most logical line, discovered a peg a realized that was the way to go. The higher I got, the easier things became and shortly afterwards I reached a first belay, a tree. Silvia seconded quickly and had no problems whatsoever throughout the entire ascent, despite the constant strong wind.

I set off again, the next pitches were a simple vertical dance, difficulties never extreme, grade III and IV, and as I looked down I realized some sections were very exposed. A final long pitch led to the top, on the summit of Monte Argentario, the view towards the coast was magnificent. I shouted down at Silvia to follow, she quickly reached me with a huge smile. We shook hands, had a quick snack and then started down the path that took us back to the car. The path was complicated, steep but made safe with some fixed ropes that simplified the descent and avoid dangerous slips ... back at the car, feet firmly back on the ground. A last glance at the Spigolo that had provided a great little adventure ... a quick beer, then we sped back home!




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