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Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
04/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites
03/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
22/07/2020 - Alpinism
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
On Repswand in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Klaus Gössinger have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch alpine sports climb Prime Time.
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few...
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
17/07/2020 - Climbing
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
03/07/2020 - Alpinism
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
24/06/2020 - Alpinism
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Cortina Mountain Guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
19/06/2020 - Alpinism
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
On Cima Cee in Val di Tovel, Brenta Dolomites, Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of Fine di un’Epoca, the end of an era, dedicated to Larcher’s father Renato. Larcher provides the report.
New route on Mt Trud in Kazakhstan by Kirill Belotserkovskiy and Grisha Chsukin
18/06/2020 - Alpinism
new route on Mt Trud in Kazakhstan by Kirill Belotserkovskiy and Grisha Chsukin
The report by Kirill Belotserkovskiy about his new route up the west face of peak Trud in Kazakhstan climbed with Grisha Chsukin
Not so far #3, Hervé Barmasse climbing the Matterhorn
11/06/2020 - Alpinism
Not so far #3, Hervé Barmasse climbing the Matterhorn
The third and final episode of the film Not so far featuring Hervé Barmasse and his new route, climbed solo in 2011, up Picco Muzio on the Matterhorn.

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