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Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
11/12/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.
The Ghosts from Above, Everest through the eyes of Renan Ozturk
04/12/2020 - Alpinism
The Ghosts from Above, Everest through the eyes of Renan Ozturk
In The Ghosts Above, American alpinist and filmmaker Renan Ozturk joins an expedition to Everest following in the footsteps of Andrew Irvine and George Mallory, the British climbers who perished on the mountain on June 8, 1924.
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Julia Chanourdie climbs 9b, third woman after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora
08/11/2020 - Climbing
Julia Chanourdie climbs 9b, third woman after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora
Yesterday at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France Julia Chanourdie climbed Eagle-4, becoming only the third woman in the world to climb a 9b after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
11/10/2020 - Alpinism
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
In spring 2019 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Backstage, a 350m multi-pitch with difficulties up to VIII+/R3 on the south face of Kleine Zinne / Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Messini reports.
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world’s first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world’s first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway
Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta
09/07/2020 - Climbing
First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta
A new contest has been launched at the crag Barliard in the Ollomont valley in Valle d’Aosta, Italy where two sport climbs have been bolted and await a first ascent. The first male and female climbers to free the routes will receive climbing equipment to the equivalent of € 1,000.
Video: Edmond Joyeusaz skiing the Mont Blanc Brenva Face
Video: Edmond Joyeusaz skiing the Mont Blanc Brenva Face
The video of the mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz and his ski descent of the Brenva Face on Mont Blanc, carried out on 25/05/2020 down the climb first ascended by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1979.
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
19/06/2020 - Alpinism
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
On Cima Cee in Val di Tovel, Brenta Dolomites, Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of Fine di un’Epoca, the end of an era, dedicated to Larcher’s father Renato. Larcher provides the report.
Spitzkoppe, climbing Namibia's red granite inselberg
16/06/2020 - Alpinism
Spitzkoppe, climbing Namibia's red granite inselberg
The famous granite inselberg Spitzkoppe in Namibia seen through the eyes of Italian mountaineer and photographer Manrico Dell’Agnola.
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi.
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
24/05/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.

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