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Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
On 30 April Andrzej Bargiel made the first ascent Yawash Sar II (6178m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Having reached the summit via the west face, the Polish mountaineer then made the mountain’s first ski descent.
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Dogma climbed at Rein in Taufers by Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner
19/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dogma climbed at Rein in Taufers by Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner
On Saturday 30 January 2021 the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner from the South Tyrol, Italy, made the first ascent of a difficult mixed climb at Rein in Taufers called Dogma.
Alex Buisse and his Mont Blanc Lines climbing posters
01/03/2021 - Interviews
Alex Buisse and his Mont Blanc Lines climbing posters
Interview with French photographer Alex Buisse about his Mont Blanc Lines climbing poster project.
Sean Villanueva completes astounding solo of Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia
12/02/2021 - Alpinism
Sean Villanueva completes astounding solo of Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia
Belgian climber Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll has made a solo ascent of the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia. This is one of the most important climbs ever carried out in Patagonia.
Atanas Skatov dies in a fall on K2
05/02/2021 - Alpinism
Atanas Skatov dies in a fall on K2
Bulgarian climber Atanas Skatov has died while descending from K2. The 42-year-old was attempting to climb the second highest mountain in the world in winter and had previously climbed 10 eight-thousanders.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
16/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by...
Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
11/12/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.
The Ghosts from Above, Everest through the eyes of Renan Ozturk
04/12/2020 - Alpinism
The Ghosts from Above, Everest through the eyes of Renan Ozturk
In The Ghosts Above, American alpinist and filmmaker Renan Ozturk joins an expedition to Everest following in the footsteps of Andrew Irvine and George Mallory, the British climbers who perished on the mountain on June 8, 1924.
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Julia Chanourdie climbs 9b, third woman after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora
08/11/2020 - Climbing
Julia Chanourdie climbs 9b, third woman after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora
Yesterday at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France Julia Chanourdie climbed Eagle-4, becoming only the third woman in the world to climb a 9b after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora.