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Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
26/02/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned...
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing it in the current historical and social context.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci
On 19 January 2016 the Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci made the first repeat of Via dei Ragni up the East Pillar of Fitz Roy, established in 1976 by Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles.
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
23/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
Yesterday 22 December 2015 the body of missing Japanese alpinist Kei Taniguchi was found on Mount Kuro in Japan. In 2009 she had been the first woman to win the prestigious Piolet d'Or.
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
11/12/2015 - Interviews
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
Interview with American alpinist, photographer and filmmaker Jimmy Chin. By Alessandra Raggio
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger depart for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat
10/12/2015 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger depart for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat
The alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have set off for the Pakistan’s Karakoram to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan's Tagas mountains
20/11/2015 - Alpinism
Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan's Tagas mountains
The Polish Tagas Expedition comprised of Tomasz Klimczak, Maciej Bedrejczuk, Marcin Wernik and Maciej Janczar climbed new routes in the Lachit Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan. The trip report by Klimczak
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
07/11/2015 - Alpinism
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
05/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy Birthday, is 1850m high and is graded TD+, VI (5c),...
Nepal to introduce new Everest climbing restrictions
30/09/2015 - Alpinism
Nepal to introduce new Everest climbing restrictions
Nepal's government announced recently that is is considering steps aimed at easing overcrowding on Everest and making the highest mountain in the world safer for climbers.

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