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Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo offer unparalleled rock climbing throughout the Dolomites. Planetmountain.com provides an overview with some of the routes that have become milestones in the history of mountaineering, such as Spigolo Giallo, Via Comici - Dimai, Via Cassin, Hasse Brandler, Spigolo degli...
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
The first episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Jakob Schubert rocks Rocklands
12/08/2017 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert rocks Rocklands
On his first climbing trip to Rocklands, South Africa, Austria’s Jakob Schubert climbed more than 20 boulder problems graded 8B or harder.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
09/08/2017 - Alpinism
Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
08/08/2017 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
The sport climbing Oscars return to Arco on Friday 25 August 2017 with the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends, celebrated during the 31st Rock Master. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Stefano Ghisolfi (Ita), Margo Hayes (USA) and Adam Ondra (Cze), while the La Sportiva Competition...
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
03/08/2017 - Events
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.
Hansjörg Auer: Marmolada, Piz Ciavazes and Sass dla Crusc free solo climb in a single day
01/08/2017 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer: Marmolada, Piz Ciavazes and Sass dla Crusc free solo climb in a single day
The video of Hansjörg Auer who on 8 August 2016 in the Dolomites climbed free solo the routes Vinatzer - Messner up Marmolada, Abramkante up Piz Ciavazes and Große Mauer up Sass dla Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel. The Austrian flew by paraglider from one mountain to the next and required 12...
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
27/07/2017 - Alpinism
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
In the Indian Kishtwar Himalaya the Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj and Urban Novak have climbed two new routes: All or nothing (6250 m) up the West Face of Arjuna (6250 m) and the North Ridge of P6013 (6038 m). Both climbs were carried out alpine style.
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
26/07/2017 - Alpinism
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out
24/07/2017 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out
A portrait and two videos of Catherine Destivelle, one the most talented climbers and alpinists of all times.