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Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
12/06/2019 - Interviews
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
Interview with blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton who the famous trad climbing route The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, the achievement has been recognised by the Scottish parliament.
Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!
10/06/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!
The 2019 Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki from Japan. The last stage in Vail, USA, was won on Saturday night by Garnbret and Yoshiyuki Ogata.
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
10/06/2019 - Climbing
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
Austrian rock climber Angela Eiter reports about her recent redpoint of Pure Dreaming, a 9a sports climb freed by Adam Ondra at Massone, Arco, Italy.
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
06/06/2019 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
Updates about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Guzel and Salavat Rakhmetov who in 2010 was seriously injured in a climbing accident in Turkey when she was 5 years old.
Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin
02/06/2019 - Climbing
Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin
On Torre di Aimonin in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach has made the first ascent of 'Know your cat', a new trad variant to the rock climbs Know yourself and Cani & Gatti
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
31/05/2019 - Alpinism
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain
29/05/2019 - Climbing
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain
Bad weather did not stop the 7th edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival which welcomed a record number of climbers. Organised by the ‘Gamatzn' climbing club, the meeting took place from 24 to 26 May 2019 at Sexten and in the Höhlensteintal in the Dolomites, close to the world famous...
Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
29/05/2019 - Alpinism
Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
Newlyweds Iker Pou and Neus Colom have made the first ascent of Honey Moon, a new multi-pitch rock climb in the Taghia Gorge in Morocco’s High Atlas massif.
Sarah Kampf controls Headcrash in Frankenjura
28/05/2019 - Climbing
Sarah Kampf controls Headcrash in Frankenjura
Sarah Kampf, née Sarah Seeger, has repeated the powerful Headcrash, an 8c sports climb originally freed by Werner Thon in the Frankenjura, Germany. The 38-year-old mother of two recounts her road to the redpoint.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
24/05/2019 - Climbing
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer
23/05/2019 - Alpinism
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer
On Pared de Catalunya at Mont Rebei in Spain Siebe Vanhee, Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano have made the first ascent of Sense retorn - No turning back, a new rock climb dedicated to Hansjörg Auer.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 final countdown
22/05/2019 - Climbing
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 final countdown
From 24 to 26 May 2019 the 7th edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place, the climbing meeting open to all close to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, Italy.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.

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