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Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
09/01/2018 - Alpinism
Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
On the Singlin rock face in Valtournenche (Valle d’Aosta, Italy) François Cazzanelli and Nicolò Buongiorno have established a new mixed climb called Il Sole di Mezzogiorno (150m, M5, 6a)
Climbing video: Alessandro Zeni attempts Bimbaluna in heavy snowfall
17/12/2017 - Climbing
Climbing video: Alessandro Zeni attempts Bimbaluna in heavy snowfall
The video of Alessandro Zeni attempting Bimbaluna at Saint Loup in Switzerland in heavy snowfall.
Ski mountaineering in the Julian Alps, between Italy and Slovenia
Ski mountaineering in the Julian Alps, between Italy and Slovenia
Ski touring in the Julian Alps, between Italy and Slovenia: the summit of Triglav, Stenar, and the Jalovec couloir. For the most demanding ski mountaineers, a three-day traverse is proposed, entirely within Triglav National Park.
Cerro Kishtwar, new route in Himalaya climbed by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, Julian Zanker
11/11/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar, new route in Himalaya climbed by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, Julian Zanker
On 14 October 2017 German alpinist Thomas Huber and the Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker made the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’, a new climb up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar. This is only the 4th ascent of the 6155 m peak located in the Indian Himalaya.
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
26/10/2017 - Alpinism
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
26/09/2017 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
Mountaineering in Alaska: in spring 2017 Lithuania’s Gediminas Simutis (28) and Germany's Frieder Wittmann (31) pulled off a series of interesting first ascents above the remote Fish Glacier in the Revelation Mountains. The trip report by Simutis.
Markus Pucher on Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia: I gave it everything
13/09/2017 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher on Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia: I gave it everything
Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher talks about the first winter solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet (2579 m), carried out in Patagonia on 8 September 2017.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Dent Blanche and Wandfluegrat, the normal South Ridge route
21/06/2017 - Alpinism
Dent Blanche and Wandfluegrat, the normal South Ridge route
Mountaineering in Switzerland: Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces the famous Wandfluegrat, also referred to as the Dent Blanche South Ridge (4357m), the classic alpine ridge high above Val d'Herens in Switzerland’s canton Valais.
Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen
05/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen
At the end of May the German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits was forced to abandon his attempt of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen due to the strong winds and snowfall at 8,580 meters. In 2009, Dujmovits completed all fourteen 8000ers without O2, except for the highest mountain in the world.
Winter mountaineering in Scotland / Greg Boswell adds difficult new mixed climb to Cairngorms
14/02/2017 - Alpinism
Winter mountaineering in Scotland / Greg Boswell adds difficult new mixed climb to Cairngorms
On 08/02/2017 Greg Boswell and Scott Grosdanof made the first ascent of Intravenous Fly Trap, a difficult new mixed climb at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms, Scotland.
Charity appeal for the victims of the Campo Felice helicopter crash
26/01/2017 - Alpinism
Charity appeal for the victims of the Campo Felice helicopter crash
We willingly publish the appeal of the Italian Corps for Mountain and Speleological Rescue to help the families of the victims of helicopter crash at Campo Felice, in Abruzzo, Italy. On 24/01/2017 the aircraft crashed during a rescue mission, the five members of its crew and the injured person were...
 All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
12/01/2017 - Alpinism
All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

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