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Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
06/11/2018 - Climbing
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
Austria's Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have both repeated Tainted Love, the 5.13d crack climb located on The Chief above Squamish, Canada freed by Hazel Findlay in 2017.
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
04/09/2018 - Climbing
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
Alan Carne, Calum Cunningham and Robbie Phillips have made the first ascent of Blood Moon (8a+, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
30/08/2018 - Climbing
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
Good weather has resulted in a series of hard trad repeats in Wales by the likes of James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet.
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.
Tolerance by Nina Caprez
14/08/2018 - Climbing
Tolerance by Nina Caprez
Swiss climber Nina Caprez talks about her recent trip to Lebanon where she joined up with the non-profit organisation ClimbAID to bring climbing to Syrian refugees and Lebanese youth affected by the war.
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
14/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
Slovenians Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar and Briton Tom Livingstone have climbed Latok I (7145 m) in the Karakorum (Pakistan), This is only the second ascent of the mountain, after the first ascent carried out by a Japanese expedition in 1979.
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
09/08/2018 - Alpinism
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
On 6 August 2018 French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier was hit by rockfall while on an climbing expedition in the Thagas Valley in Pakistan’s Karakorum with Nicolas Favresse, Carlos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Maynadier was taken to Skardu military hospital by helicopter where his condition is far better than initially feared....
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
31/07/2018 - Alpinism
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped for over 6 days on Latok I, has been rescued by the Pakistani military helicopters.
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
29/07/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
Updates from Pakistan concerning the attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped at 6200m altitude on Latok I (7145 m) in Karakorum.
Latok I: Sergey Glazunov perishes, Alexander Gukov trapped at 6200 meters
26/07/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I: Sergey Glazunov perishes, Alexander Gukov trapped at 6200 meters
Dramatic hours on Latok 1 (7,145 m): Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov is currently trapped at 6200 meters after witnessing the death of his climbing partner Sergey Glazunov. A rescue operation is currently underway in a race against time.
Rick Allen rescued by drone in descent off Broad Peak
17/07/2018 - Alpinism
Rick Allen rescued by drone in descent off Broad Peak
Thanks to the help of a drone leading British mountaineer Rick Allen has been rescued in descent off Broad Peak (8047m) in Pakistan.
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
10/07/2018 - Alpinism
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson reports about his repeat of El Ojo Critico, the difficult multi-pitch trad climb ascended in Spain’s Ordesa National Park by Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi in 2007 and repeated previously only by Unai Mendia and Iker Madoz. Belayed by Caroline Ciavaldini, Pearson managed to onsight...
Piotr Schab 8c first ascent onsight at Cuenca and Biographie at Céüse
04/07/2018 - Climbing
Piotr Schab 8c first ascent onsight at Cuenca and Biographie at Céüse
One of Poland’s strongest young climbers Piotr Schab has redpointed the 9a+ Biographie at Ceuse in France and made the onsight first ascent of Baby Boy, an 8c sports climb at Cuenca in Spain.