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Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Night Terror, Lobuche East, Kauffman shares ascent details
28/12/2010 - Alpinism
Night Terror, Lobuche East, Kauffman shares ascent details
Joel Kauffman reports about the ascent of Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°) on Lobuche East, Nepal, carried out with fellow American Jared Vilhauer.
Vilhauer and Kauffman establish Night Terror on Lobuche East, Nepal
23/12/2010 - Alpinism
Vilhauer and Kauffman establish Night Terror on Lobuche East, Nepal
The Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer have established Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°), a stunning line up Lobuche East (6119m), Nepal.
Sharma sends super route at Oliana
20/12/2010 - Climbing
Sharma sends super route at Oliana
Chris Sharma has added "Power inverter" 9a+ to Oliana, Lleida, Spain.
The Greatest Flasher
06/12/2010 - Climbing
The Greatest Flasher
Paul Robinson stars in Carlo Traversi's bouldering film The Greatest Flasher.
Hard trad at New River Gorge, Virginia, USA
04/12/2010 - Climbing
Hard trad at New River Gorge, Virginia, USA
American climbers Pat Goodman and Matt Wilder have established the trad routes The Scavenger (5.13c) and The Golden Bullet (5.13d) at the New River Gorge, Virginia, USA.
Colin Haley, first solo of Cerro Standhardt and Exocet in Patagonia
01/12/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, first solo of Cerro Standhardt and Exocet in Patagonia
American alpinist Colin Haley has carried out the first solo ascent of Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia, via the route Exocet (500m, WI5, 5.9).
China climbing action by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand
29/11/2010 - Alpinism
China climbing action by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand
Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand have carried out a series of stunning climbs in the Minya Konka range in western China.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Lleida, sport climbing in Spain
18/11/2010 - Climbing
Lleida, sport climbing in Spain
Lleida in Spain has been developing fast into one of the world's premier sport climbing areas, thanks in great part to one of the main activists, Dani Andrada. Pete O'Donovan introduces the Catalonian delights.
Anthamatten blitzclimb Yosemite valley
10/11/2010 - Climbing
Anthamatten blitzclimb Yosemite valley
In autumn 2010 Simon and Samuel Anthamatten from Switzerland blitzed the West Face, Lurking Fear, Zodiac, Tangerine Trip, Lost in america, North American Wall, Mescalito, The Nose, Salathé and the Linkup Half Dome - The Nose in Yosemite Valley, USA
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
09/11/2010 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
On 22/10/2010 in Korea's capital Seoul the Japanese alpinists Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama won the fifth edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, while the lifetime achievement award went to their fellow countryman Tsuneo Hasegawa.
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
08/11/2010 - Climbing
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
28/10/2010 - Alpinism
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
American alpinist Joseph Puryear has died in Tibet while attempting Labuche Kang (7367m) together with David Gottlieb.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.

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