Chris Sharma, new 9b at Oliana
On the same day American climber Chris Sharma added another 9b to Oliana close to Lleida in Spain, Fight or flight, and climbed the 9a+ direct start Chaxi.
"I've got a bunch of other routes on the go here in Catalonia and so it'll be great to concentrate on these" is what Sharma told us not even a fortnight ago after freeing First Round First Minute 9b at Margalef. With the shackles finally freed the 30-year-old American climber is now on a roll and this newly found psychological freedom has resulted in the first ascent of yet another 9b, "Fight or Flight" at his backyard crag Oliana. This adds to his other three 9a+ at the immense Contrafort de Rumbau, namely Power inverter, Pachamama and Papichulo.
Sharma finished the day by climbing the second section of Chaxi, a 9a+ in its own right. Sights are obviously set for the entire Chaxi Raxi, his former project freed recently by Adam Ondra, but knowing Sharma his ultimate aim is for even higher still!
Chris Sharma's 9b
2006 Es Pontas Maiorca - Deep water solo up the immense arch with massive 2m dyno
2008 Jumbo Love - Clark Mountain, USA. 80 superbly overhanging meters.
2008 Golpe de Estado, Siurana, Spain.A bouldery start and stamina finsh up Estado Critico. First 9b to be confirmed by Adam Ondra's repeat in 2010.
2009 Neanderthal 9b, Santa Linya, Spain. Marathon outing up the massive cave.
2011 First Round first Minute, Margalef. A short and intense physical a psychological battle.
Chris Sharma on his Pachamama, Oliana.