3706 News found

In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.

Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013

South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have made the first ascent of Räuber Hotzenplotz (M9 Wi5). This mixed climb is located to the left of the famous Koflerbach icefall close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.

Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.

In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).

On 31/12/2018 Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder made the first ascent of Dugi rat at the crag Vrulja close to Omiš in Croatia. Graded 9a+, this is now the hardest sport climb in the country.

The film Zabardast directed by Jérôme Tanon that documents a trip into the heart of the Karakorum to explore the potential for freeride skiing in Pakistan. The highlight was the ski descent of 5880m high Biacherahi. With Thomas Delfino, Léo Taillefer, Zak Mills, Yannick Graziani and Hélias Millerioux.

Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Neanderthal, the 9b sports climb put up by Chris Sharma in 2009 at the Santa Linya in Spain.

On 16 December 2018 Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Utopia, a new mixed climb close to Rein in Taufers in Italy.

Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.

At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.

The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.

On Friday 21 December 2018 the Ice Tower at Rabenstein / Corvara in the Dolomites will open to the public. The structure will host a stage of the 2019 Ice Climbing World Cup on 1 - 3 February 2019.

planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...

Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy is now only the fourth climber to master these difficulties.

Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.