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Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris...
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Odyssey and Iliad, two new climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
23/05/2014 - Alpinism
Odyssey and Iliad, two new climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
An team of young alpinists comprised of Lise Billon, Pedro Angel Galan Diaz, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascents of the ice and mixed routes The Odyssey (M7, 6b, A1, 90°, 1100m) up the unclimbed Pyramid Peak and The Iliad (TD+ 900m) up Mount Boucansaud in...
Seltene Erden, new route up Wildgall in the Rieserferner group by Bachmann and Tinkhauser
13/05/2014 - Alpinism
Seltene Erden, new route up Wildgall in the Rieserferner group by Bachmann and Tinkhauser
On 8/04/2014 Johannes Bachmann and Manuel Tinkhauser made the first ascent of Seltene Erden (80° M4+ V+), a new ice and mixed route up the NE Face of Wildgall / Collaspro 3273m, (Rieserferner Group, Tauern Alps).
Senja Island new ice climbs in Norway by Papert, Hauser and Senf
21/04/2014 - Alpinism
Senja Island new ice climbs in Norway by Papert, Hauser and Senf
In February 2014 Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser Thomas Senf made three first ascents in Norway: Finnmonster (A2+, WI6 400m) on Senja Island, Eagles Paradise (8/IIIV WI5 500m) up Roalden and Crazy Maze (8+/IX WI4+ 600m) up Breitinden.
Montserrat: Sachi Amma and Ferran Guerrero free La reina de Escocia
06/04/2014 - Climbing
Montserrat: Sachi Amma and Ferran Guerrero free La reina de Escocia
On 1 April 2014 Sachi Amma and Ferran Guerrero made the first free ascent of La reina de Escocia, 8b+, originally climbed with the use of aid by Gabriel Reina in 1984.
Ski Mountaineering European championship 2014: Bon Mardion and Roux win Individual Race at Andorra
17/02/2014 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering European championship 2014: Bon Mardion and Roux win Individual Race at Andorra
At Arcalis (Andorra) the French athletes William Bon Mardion and Laetitia Roux won the Individual Race at the European ski mountaineering championships 2014. Silver was won by Italy's Matteo Eydallin and by Swizerland's Maude Mathys. Bronze was won by Italy's Manfred Reichegger and France's Axelle Mollaret.
Hansjörg Auer and the cornice collapse
11/02/2014 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer and the cornice collapse
Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer talks about the snow cornice that collapsed beneath his feet during a recent climb in the Ötztaler Alps.
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
Nanga Parbat, four expeditions aim for first winter ascent
29/12/2013 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat, four expeditions aim for first winter ascent
Simone Moro, Emilio Previtali and David Göttler landed in Islamabad yesterday and in a few days time will reach Rupal Base Camp beneath Nanga Parbat (8125m), while a few days ago Ralf Dujmovits and Dariusz "Darek" Zaluski reached Base Camp on the Diamir Face. Tomasz Mackiewicz, Marek Klonowski, Jacek Teler...
Wilder Kaiser, another free climb by Roland Hemetzberger
18/11/2013 - Alpinism
Wilder Kaiser, another free climb by Roland Hemetzberger
On the Fleishbank sector of the Wilder Kaiser in Austria Roland Hemetzberger has made the first free ascent of Scheffler - Siegert route, established in 1960 by Peter Siegert and Wulf Scheffler and now freed with difficulties up to UIAA 10.
Prilep, bouldering in Macedonia with Niccolò Ceria
14/11/2013 - Climbing
Prilep, bouldering in Macedonia with Niccolò Ceria
The report by Niccolò Ceria after his climbing trip to Macedonia to discover the bouldering around Prilep.
Kang Nachugo East, Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic establish Monsoon
06/11/2013 - Alpinism
Kang Nachugo East, Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic establish Monsoon
On 21 and 22 October 2013 Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic made the first ascent of Monsoon (1500m /75°) up the SW Face of Kang Nachugo East, Rolwaling valley, Himalaya, Nepal.
Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo
14/10/2013 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck talks about his fast and impressive solo ascent up the South Face of Annapurna South (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya) that on 8 and 9 October 2013 enabled him to make the first ascent of the direct line attempted in 1992 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin.
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
27/09/2013 - Interviews
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
Interview with Chilean alpinist Camilo Rada after the first ascent, carried out with Natalia Martinez from Argentina, of a new route up the North Face of Monte Sarmiento in Patagonia. Suerte de Sarmiento is only the second route to the East summit after the first ascent carried out by Clemente...
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
28/08/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
On 2 August Roger Schäli and Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the Piola - Ghilini Direttissima (1400m, 7c) on the north face of the Eiger.

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