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Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker. Hinterberger reports.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach
20/11/2019 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach
Winter climbing in Scotland has begun in earnest with the first ascent of Local Hero at An Teallach by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
Junko Tabei, first woman to summit Everest, celebrated by Google
22/09/2019 - Alpinism
Junko Tabei, first woman to summit Everest, celebrated by Google
Google has dedicated a doodle to celebrate the 80th birth anniversary of Junko Tabei, the first woman to reach the summit of Everest. Here are some details about the historic ascent completed on 16 May 1975.
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
03/09/2019 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
Vlad Capusan remembers his friend and climbing partner Zsolt Török, one of Romania’s foremost mountaineers who lost his life in a climbing accident on 14 August 2019 in the Făgăraș mountains.
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
28/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
British mountaineer Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the entire west ridge of Mount Waddington in Canada’s Coast Mountains, climbed with Ian Welsted alpine style from 3 to 7 August 2019. On 22 July the duo climbed the North Face of Mount Phillips in the Canadian Rockies.
Simon Messner completes solo ascent of unclimbed Geshot Peak / Toshe III in Pakistan
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner completes solo ascent of unclimbed Geshot Peak / Toshe III in Pakistan
The South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Messner has made a solo ascent of Toshe III, a 6,200m mountain in Pakistan that had never been climbed before, known locally as Geshot Peak.
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.

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