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Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
09/01/2018 - Alpinism
Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno
On the Singlin rock face in Valtournenche (Valle d’Aosta, Italy) François Cazzanelli and Nicolò Buongiorno have established a new mixed climb called Il sole di Mezzogiorno (150m, M5, 6a)
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Last May and June Slovakian alpinists Miroslav Peťo and Maroš Červienka carried out a series of difficult ski descents in the Caucasus massif in Georgia: the SW Ridge of Tetnuldi (4858 m), the SE couloir of Chatyn Tau (4412 m) and, above all, the SE couloir of Ushba North summit...
Spes Ultima Dea, big new Brenta Dolomites rock climb
22/09/2017 - Alpinism
Spes Ultima Dea, big new Brenta Dolomites rock climb
Alessandro Beber reports about the first ascent of 'Spes Ultima Dea', a huge new rock climb up Crozon di Brenta in the Italian Brenta Dolomites, established over three days with Gianni Canale.
Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco
07/09/2017 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni who on 02/09/2017 in Val Noasca (Valle dell’Orco, Italy) pulled off the first repeat of 29 dots, the difficult highball boulder problem freed in 2015 by Austria’s Bernd Zangerl.
Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting
01/09/2017 - Climbing
Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting
One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.
Arco Rock Legends: Mike Kosterlitz, Margo Hayes and Janja Garnbret win in 2017
27/08/2017 - Events
Arco Rock Legends: Mike Kosterlitz, Margo Hayes and Janja Garnbret win in 2017
On Friday 25/08/2017 the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends took place in Arco, Italy. Scottish climber and Nobel Prize in Physics laureate Mike Kosterlitz received the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil award. America's Margo Hayes won the Wild Country Rock Award, while Slovenia's Janja Garnbret won the La...
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016, awarded Climbing Ambassador at the Arco climbing Oscars
27/06/2017 - Events
Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016, awarded Climbing Ambassador at the Arco climbing Oscars
On 25 August 2017 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2017 prize will be awarded to Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016 and legends name in the climbing world.
Damiano Lenzi and Laetitia Roux Individual Ski Mountaineering World Champions
24/02/2017 - Competitions
Damiano Lenzi and Laetitia Roux Individual Ski Mountaineering World Champions
On the first day of the Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2017 at Alpago - Piancavallo, Italy’s Damiano Lenzi and France’s Laetitia Roux were crowned Individual world champions. Silver went to Kilian Jornet Burgada from Spain and Maude Mathys from Switzerland, while bronze went to Anton Palzer from Germany and Axelle...
For Adriano Trombetta
20/02/2017 - Alpinism
For Adriano Trombetta
In memory of Adriano Trombetta, who died Friday, Feb. 17, 2017 along with Margherita Beria D’Argentina and Antonio Lovato in an avalanche on Monte Chaberton (Val di Susa, Cottian Alps). By Elio Bonfanti.
Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China
13/02/2017 - Alpinism
Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China
Ice climbing in China: a stunning icefall resembling a Christmas tree was first ascended on 31/01/2017 by He Chuan and Liu Yang in XianXia canyon, a branch of Linzhou Taihang canyon.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017, Laetitia Roux, Anton Palzer, Marti Werner and Emelie Forsberg win in Andorra
23/01/2017 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017, Laetitia Roux, Anton Palzer, Marti Werner and Emelie Forsberg win in Andorra
The first stage of the ISMF Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017 took place at Font Blanca in Andorra last weekend. Saturday’s Individual race was won by France’s Laetitia Roux and Germany’s Anton Palzer, while Sunday’s Vertical race was won by Sweden’s Emelie Forsberg and Switzerland’s Marti Werner.
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
14/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes and Ashima Shiraishi all followed up their Lead victories at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou by winning Gold in the Bouldering discipline. They were joined by Borna Cujic, Keita Dohi and Nathan Martin.