1061 News found

Tragedy in Norway, where last week the alpinists Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal died while attempting a new ice climb up the Kjerag rock face.

With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.

Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.

The report by David Lama about his first free ascent of the Compressor route up the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (Patagonia), carried out by the Austrian climber from 20 - 21 January 2012.

Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...

On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.

18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.

On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).

On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.

On 3 January Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Mount Tyree (Antarctic). In doing so he has become the first person to climb the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents.

American alpinist Steve House has started the mentoring program "Alpine Mentors". Aspiring young climbers and alpinists can send applications to 01/04/2012

Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).

Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman, Mikey Schafer and established Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2+ 900m, 750 new) up the Southwest Face, Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.

The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.

At the start of December Colin Haley and Jorge Ackerman completed a new route up Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia: El Caracol (500m, 5.9, A1+, M4). On 7 December Haley soloed Aguja Innominata via the Anglo-American route 400m 6c (6b+ A0).

The American magazine Outside has chosen Planetmountain as one of world's best 10 climbing sites.