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Gabriele Moroni discovers Luogosanto and the most difficult boulder problem in Sardinia
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni discovers Luogosanto and the most difficult boulder problem in Sardinia
The report by Gabriele Moroni about his first climbing trip to Sardinia during which, at Bosco di Luogosanto in Gallura, he freed Patagarroso, the first 8B boulder problem on the Italian island.
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
The new crag Family San Martino has been inaugurated at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Located close to the historic climbing area Massone, this small sheet of rock has been bolted specifically for families and young children and offers 17 routes from 3a to 6b.
Heroes on Pizzo Campana, new rock climb in Sicily
19/10/2015 - Climbing
Heroes on Pizzo Campana, new rock climb in Sicily
Italian climber Massimo Flaccavento reports about the first ascent, carried out together with Giuseppe Barbagallo and Giorgio Iurato, of Heroes (6b+, 186m), a new climb up the north face of Pizzo Campana (Rocca Busambra) close to Palermo, Sicily.
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
16/10/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
14/10/2015 - Interviews
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini in 60 giorni in 2008. In 2007, Miha Valic...
Via ferrata del Vajont, the original idea by Fabio Bristot
13/10/2015 - Trekking
Via ferrata del Vajont, the original idea by Fabio Bristot
Fabio Bristot, member of the Bellunese Dolomites Mountain Rescue Service, explains his reasoning that resulted in the construction of the Via Ferrata della Memoria, the new via ferrata which commemorates the 1910 victims of the Vajont disaster that occurred on 9 October 1963.
Calagonone Climbing Experience, with Patxi Usobiaga and Joe Kinder
09/10/2015 - Climbing
Calagonone Climbing Experience, with Patxi Usobiaga and Joe Kinder
The film Calagonone Climbing Experience in Sardinia directed by Francesco Piras featuring the climbers Patxi Usobiaga and Joe Kinder.
Via ferrata del Vajont, the new via ferrata della Memoria above Longarone
09/10/2015 - Trekking
Via ferrata del Vajont, the new via ferrata della Memoria above Longarone
On 2 October 2015 at Longarone (Italy) the new Via ferrata della Memoria, also referred to as Via ferrata del Vajont, was inaugurated above the Vajont Gorge. Constructed by the Cortina Mountain Guides, this is a different way to remember the Vajont disaster that struck on 9 October 1963.
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
08/10/2015 - Climbing
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent of 50 anni son volati, 25 regalati! (215m, 8a+ max, 7b obl.), a new rock climb established to celebrate his first 50 years together with Herman Zanetti, Luca Giupponi and Alessandro Larcher up the East Face Monte Fibbion (Campa Group, Brenta Dolomites).
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dave Graham rock Flatanger
30/09/2015 - Climbing
Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dave Graham rock Flatanger
Thor’s Hammer 9a+ at Flatanger - Hanshellern in Norway has been repeated by Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos and Jakob Schubert. Dave Graham has made the first repeat of The Illusionist 9a.
Kyparissi, a new sports climbing paradise in Greece
28/09/2015 - Climbing
Kyparissi, a new sports climbing paradise in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Kyparissi, a mere 5 hours from Athens and a secluded paradise for sport climbing. Although currently there are just over 100 sport climbs, the potential is enormous and the Kyparissi Climbing Festival has been organised from 2 - 4 October 2015 to celebrate the recent development in...
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
22/09/2015 - Events
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
From 10 - 15 September 2015 the Highline Meeting Monte Piana took place close to Misurina in the Dolomites. More than 350 highliners from 20 countries participated in this non-competitive event, during which a new highline world record was set and a hammock rainbow was created to symbolise peace, to...
Nalle Hukkataival succeeds on The stepping stone V15 in the Grampians
21/09/2015 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival succeeds on The stepping stone V15 in the Grampians
Finish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of The stepping stone V15 at the Grampians in Australia, describing the ascent of this V15 boulder problem as possibly "the most memorable climbing experience of my life!"
Nalle Hukkataival projecting in the Grampians
19/09/2015 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival projecting in the Grampians
The video of Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival attempting a king line boulder problem in the Grampians, Australia.