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Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few...
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
30/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
From 21 to 22 February Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská made the first ascent of Mystery (85 °, M8, C1, 600m (15 pitches) on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. Húserka reports.
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
16/09/2019 - Alpinism
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
On Spiz de le Lastia in the Agner group, Dolomites, Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata have made the first ascent of Futuro Incerto. Diego Toigo reports about the climb, established with one bivouac from 18 to 19 August 2019.
Zeitsprung, new climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites
21/08/2019 - Alpinism
Zeitsprung, new climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites
The mountain guides Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner have made the first ascent of Zeitsprung, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Große Zinne / Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
03/08/2019 - Alpinism
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
French alpinists Antoine Bletton and Sébastien Moatti have established Armand Marley (350m, 6a+), a new rock climb up Gendarme du Cardinal in the Mont Blanc massif.
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
10/07/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and the summit of Mont Blanc.
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
03/07/2019 - Alpinism
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Mountaineering on Mont Blanc and a stone's throw from the Torino refuge: Aosta mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces two new mixed climb on Grand Flambeau, Koala Pirla and La Vie in Rosa.
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
19/06/2019 - Interviews
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
Interview with Alex Chabod, vice president of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Guides, after the decision to recommend an ascent route and a different descent route on Gran Paradiso in order to avoid queues forming on the final meters to the summit.
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Luca Dallavalle reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of the NW Face of Cima Scarpacò (3252m) in the Adamello - Presanella group, climbed and skied on 22/04/2019 with his brother Roberto Dallavalle.
Brenta Dolomites Cima Mandron skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Brenta Dolomites Cima Mandron skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 16/02/2019 Roberto Dallavalle and his brother Luca made the first ski descent on the south face of Cima Mandron in the Brenta Dolomites.
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
20/11/2018 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
Climbing solo and self-belayed for five days, Japan’s Keita Kurakami has repeated The Nose on El Capitan (Yosemite, USA). This is the first time that the route freed in 1993 by Lynn Hill has been climbed rope solo all free.
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
20/09/2018 - Alpinism
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
Six quick tips for rock climbing at the Cinque Torri from the Cortina Mountain Guides, prior to the upcoming meeting Delicious Climbing Dolomiti scheduled to takes place on Sunday 23 September 2018. By Paolino Tassi
Cinque Torri and the Delicious Climbing Dolomiti contest 2018
13/09/2018 - Events
Cinque Torri and the Delicious Climbing Dolomiti contest 2018
On Sunday 23 September 2018 the Cinque Torri crags in the Dolomites above Cortina d’Ampezzo will host the 2nd Delicious Climbing Dolomiti climbing contest. A rock climbing competition in pairs, open to everyone, part of the third Delicious Festival.