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Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut
30/09/2021 - Alpinism
Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut
As part of his 'From 0 to 0' project, Andrea Lanfri set off from Genoa by bike and climbed to the Capanna Margherita (4554m) on Monte Rosa, before returning to Genoa by bike. The Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca travelled over 470km by bike and needed just 18 hours...
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
28/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required...
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
24/09/2021 - Alpinism
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
With their ascent of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed five of the six great north faces of the Alps. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn and Petit Dru, now the only peak missing off their list is...
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have climbed Colonne d’Ercole (1200m, IX) on Mount Civetta in the Dolomites onsight and in a single day. A few days earlier the French mountaineers had teamed up with Silvia Loreggian, climbing Specchio di Sara with the starting variant Coitus Interruptus and the Larcher-Vigiani (8a...
Lorenzo Scandroglio
16/07/2021 - Alpinism
Lorenzo Scandroglio
The Italian mountaineering community is in mourning: Lorenzo Scandroglio, a well-known mountain journalist, writer and translator, mountain hut warden, mountaineer and member of the Italian mountain rescue team, passed away at the age of 52.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.
Aiguille de Pélerins, John McCune and Will Sim go Above and Beyond
14/04/2021 - Alpinism
Aiguille de Pélerins, John McCune and Will Sim go Above and Beyond
British mountaineers John McCune and Will Sim have climbed what is likely to be a new route to the left of Beyond Good and Evil on the North Face of Aiguille de Pélerins in the Mont Blanc massif. Above and Beyond has been graded ED M6 6b+.
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva
12/11/2020 - Alpinism
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva
The oldest refuge in the Dolomites, located on the east face of Punta Penia on Marmolada, featuring mountain guide Bruno Pederiva.
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
16/10/2020 - Alpinism
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of The King of Fanes on the South Face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita end of season timelapse
16/09/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita end of season timelapse
The time-lapse from Capanna Margherita on Monte Rosa. This is the last video of 2020, since the highest mountain hut in the Alps has now closed its summer season.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.

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