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'Le château dans le ciel' added to Petit Dru by Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino, Hugo Peruzzo
26/06/2025 - Alpinism
'Le château dans le ciel' added to Petit Dru by Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino, Hugo Peruzzo
From 18 - 21 June 2025 French alpinists Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino and Hugo Peruzzo made the first ascent of 'Le château dans le ciel' (ED, 7b+, 1000m) on Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.
Hervé Barmasse completes first winter enchainment of all main peaks of the Gran Sasso massif
18/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse completes first winter enchainment of all main peaks of the Gran Sasso massif
From 6 to 7 March 2025, the Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse completed the first solo winter enchainment of all the main peaks of the Gran Sasso d'Italia massif.
After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
18/03/2025 - Environment
After the Santner refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
The Provincial Council of Bolzano in the South Tyrol, Italy, has unanimously approved a bill to modify the management of inalienable heritage in mountainous areas of historical, cultural, or landscape value above an altitude of 1,600 meters. The opinion of an expert committee composed of provincial offices, the AVS (Alpine...
'Gringos Locos' on Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia finally completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, Mirco Grasso
03/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Gringos Locos' on Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia finally completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, Mirco Grasso
On the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, and Mirco Grasso have completed Gringos Locos. The route was first attempted in 1995 by Maurizio Giordani and Luca Maspes, who had managed to climb more than three-quarters up the face.
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic Alpine Club, owner of the huts, provides the details.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
17/04/2024 - Alpinism
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
Luca Giupponi report about 'Tokyo 2021' established on Torre Est in the Vajolet Towers, Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites. First ascended with Marco Fiorentini and Dino Vanzetta, the route is dedicated to Alex Toniolli.
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
25/03/2024 - Alpinism
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
Santiago Padròs reports about his February 2024 first ascents of two mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles in the Mont Blanc massif: 'Hypnotic Lain' on Pointe de Nantillons with Oliver Gajewski dedicated to Line van den Berg, and 'Folie Perseverante' on Capucin du Requin, climbed with Valérie Dupont and...
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
15/03/2024 - Alpinism
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the East face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
29/11/2023 - Alpinism
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
The Carrel hut on the Matterhorn will be moved to avoid rockfall. The new bivouac will be built a few meters from its current location and should be inaugurated in summer 2024. The cost of demolition and reconstruction is in the regione of two million euros.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
26/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
Mission complete on Monte Rosa: the Italian military corp Alpini won the XXIII edition of the Mezzalama Trophy. Matteo Eydallin, Robert Antonioli and Davide Magnini dominated the men's event, while Giulia Murada, Giulia Compagnoni and Alba De Silvestro clinched a historic gold medal in the women's competition. Eydallin and Nicolini...
Mezzalama Trophy 2023, all is set for tomorrow's XXIII edition
21/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023, all is set for tomorrow's XXIII edition
On Saturday 22 April 2023 at 5:30 the XXIII Mezzalama Trophy will begin from from Breuil-Cervinia. The legendary ski mountaineering competition across the Monte Rosa massif will be streamed live as of 8:15.
Ascend: Forced to flee the Taliban, Afghan women find a home in climbing
10/04/2023 - Climbing
Ascend: Forced to flee the Taliban, Afghan women find a home in climbing
The film Ascend, documenting the work of the organisation empowering women in Afghanistan through climbing.