293 News found
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
01/05/2020 - Alpinism
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of Courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.
16/04/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye to British climbing legend Joe Brown Joe Brown, one of the world’s greatest all-round climbers, passed away last night aged 89. Brown pioneered climbs throughout Great Britain, the Alps and the Greater Ranges in particular in the 1950's and '60's. Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in Wales and the first ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in Nepal...
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
18/09/2019 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher: Silbergeier, Headless children and Zeit zum Atmen Summer climbing in the mountains resulted in three hard multipitches for Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl: Silbergeier and Headless children in the Rätikon in Switzerland and Zeit zum Atmen up Rote Wand in Austria.
11/09/2019 - Climbing
Avostanis, rock climbing above an enchanting lake in Italy Carnic Alps Attilio De Rovere introduces the beautiful crag Avostanis in Carnia (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy). With more than 120 sport climbs and a handful of multipitch routes, this cliff is ideal for all those who climb from 4b to 8b. Avostanis will also host the historic Arrampicarnia climbing meeting from 14...
28/05/2019 - Climbing
Sarah Kampf controls Headcrash in Frankenjura Sarah Kampf, née Sarah Seeger, has repeated the powerful Headcrash, an 8c sports climb originally freed by Werner Thon in the Frankenjura, Germany. The 38-year-old mother of two recounts her road to the redpoint.
12/02/2019 - Alpinism
Ezio Marlier adds two mixed climbs to Ollomont in Valle D'Aosta At Ollomont, a splendid valley that hides some of the most mysterious icefalls in Itay’s Aosta Valley, Ezio Marlier has established two mixed climbs: Albice with Alberto Pierotti and Rikiteppa with Paolo Celesia. Marlier reports
05/02/2019 - Alpinism
Caddymania, new Dolomites winter climb up Langkofel by Alessandro Baù, Giovanni Zaccaria Winter mountaineering in the Dolomites: on the NW Face of the Innerkofler Tower, Langkofel / Sassolungo, Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of the mixed climb of Caddymania. Zaccaria reports.
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
19/10/2018 - Events
Champions Challenge 2018: photos & thoughts of Adam Ondra & Stefano Ghisolfi The photos taken by Giampaolo Calzà and the thoughts of Stefano Ghisolfi and Adam Ondra about the recent Champions Challenge, the climbing event that took place last Saturday at Arco, Italy.
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
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